($30): With Clos du Val’s location in the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley and owner Bernard Portet’s Bordeaux heritage, it’s not surprising that they make superb Cabernet Sauvignon.  What continues to surprise me–although it shouldn’t since they have been doing it consistently over the years–is how good their Pinot Noir is.  There’s no mistaking this fruit-filled treasure for red Burgundy, but for all its lush ripeness, it’s not over the top.  They manage to combine subtle earth notes with the plush black fruit flavors while maintaining elegance, the hallmark of all their red wines.  Thirty bucks is a lot for a bottle of wine these days, but Pinot Noir is never inexpensive.  This one’s a bargain compared to many others from California. 92 Michael Apstein Aug 25, 2009