($13, Underdog Wine Merchants): Bodegas Montecillo, an excellent Rioja-based producer, is branching out. Like many established Spanish producers who are based outside of the Rias Baixas region on Spain’s northwest corner, Montecillo is jumping on the Albariño bandwagon with this wine they call Verdemar. Fresh and lively, it has an almost spritzy acidity with makes it an all-around winner for simple seafood this summer. 86 Michael Apstein Jul 28, 2009