($30, Louis Dressner Selections): Michel Tete makes serious Beaujolais.  His wines dispel the notion that Beaujolais is simply grapey swill.  He makes this Cuvée Prestige along with a regular bottling from the Domaine du Clos du Fief (also reviewed this week).  The Cuvée Prestige comes from old vines, which explains the unusual complexity–layers of black and red fruit seamlessly intermingled with minerality–not often found in Beaujolais.  Thirty bucks is a lot to ask for Beaujolais, but this is not your usual Beaujolais.  It will even convert the doubters. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009