($24, Louis Dressner Selections): The wines from Julienas, one of the 10 named villages–or crus–of Beaujolais typically have an attractive spice and rusticity which makes them one of my favorites from that region.  Michel Tete captures that essential essence–spiced red fruit–in this beautifully balanced wine. It has plenty of depth and substance without hard edges.  Drink it now with hearty stews or save it until the weather allows you to throw meat on the grill. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009