($20, Louis Dressner Selections): Damien Coquelet, only 20 years old, comes from a family–Descombes–whose name is synonymous with superb Beaujolais.  This Chiroubles could be the poster child for the wines of that village.  Very fragrant, with a delicate–almost lacey–minerality, it is not grapey at all.  You can almost taste the granite subsoil for which the region is famous. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 13, 2009