($27, Wilson Daniels): The French are finally caving in to the idea of putting the grape name on the label — at least for their lower-level appellation controllée wines, such as this Bourgogne Rouge.  Pierre Morey is one of the most talented and rigorous winemakers in Burgundy and this, his lowest level wine, speaks to his ability.  This lip smacking good Pinot Noir occupies the other end of the spectrum from the very ripe, sometimes jammy style of Pinot Noir coming out of California.  Here you find earth, leafiness and good grip to balance the combination of red and black fruit.  California Pinot Noir lovers approach with caution.  Those wishing to sample authentic red Burgundy, dive in. Michael Apstein Oct 7, 2008