($35): Domaine Carneros, the California outpost of the Champagne firm Taittinger, makes excellent sparkling wines from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, so it comes as no surprise that they should also try their hand at still wines from those varietals.  Their Estate Pinot Noir, the lower of two tiers of Pinot, emphasizes the pure, cherry-like fruit aspect characteristic of many California renditions of this grape variety.  The earthy, leafy qualities that the grape often delivers–especially in Burgundy–are in the distant background.  This direct, fresh, fruit-forward wine offers ripe–almost sweet–red fruit flavors and mild tannins. 86 Michael Apstein Sep 23, 2008