($174, Maison Marques and Domaines): I am thrilled to see this traditional firm making this modern style of Rioja because it means they have no intention of changing the character of their classic Rioja.  Although Tempranillo is still the dominant grape (86%)–Cabernet Sauvignon comprises about 8% of the blend and Graciano makes up the rest–it has no resemblance to their regular Rioja Reserva.  Made from low yields of very ripe grapes and aged in French oak barrels for almost 2 years, this is a powerful (14.5% alcohol) wine filled to the brim with succulent dark fruit flavors.  Its very polished and silky tannins makes it enjoyable now for those whose tastes run to bold wines.  Not readily identifiable as a ‘typical’ Rioja, this is a new side of the region–for better or for worse.   For my money, give me three bottles of their 2000 Castillo Ygay. 86 Michael Apstein Jun 17, 2008