($54, Maison Marques and Domaines): The Castillo Ygay Grand Reserva, the flagship wine of the Marqués de Murrieta estate, is produced in only great vintages–the 2000 is the fifth since 1978–and entirely from the bodega’s own grapes.  A blend of exclusively Tempranillo and Manzuelo (Garnacha and Graciano have been included in other vintages), the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks and then aged in American oak barrels for approximately three years.  Marqués de Murrieta aged the 2000 in bottle for another four years before release, which explains why it is the one currently available.  As with their Reserva, the Grand Reserva focuses on complexity and length in the form of leathery nuances and dried–as opposed to fresh–fruit character rather than sheer power.  Still, it’s no lightweight and the plethora of flavors is dazzling. 93 Michael Apstein Jun 17, 2008