($55, Vintage ’59 Imports): Soutiran, a small grower located in Ambonnay, a Grand Cru village known for Pinot Noir, makes a stunning and powerful non-vintage Brut from the roughly 50 acres he owns or farms there for other family members.  Part of its complexity comes from Soutiran’s practice of aging his reserve wines in barrel as opposed to the more usual practice of using stainless steel tanks.  He fashions an impeccable balance of creamy elegance from Chardonnay–about 40% of the blend–with persistent intensity from Pinot Noir.  This is a bold Brut balanced by finesse. 92 Michael Apstein Jun 17, 2008