($20, Ex-Cellars): Burrier, proprietor of the high-quality Château de Beauregard in Pouilly-Fuissé, also acts as a small négociant for a few wines from Beaujolais. This terrific wine from Julienas, one of the best crus of Beaujolais, conveys fresh fruity, but not grapey, flavors along with an alluring wildness often characteristic of wines from this village.  Succulent and long, it should convert those who doubt that Beaujolais can be serious wine.  Although expensive compared to mass-produced Beaujolais, it’s a great value based on what it delivers. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 22, 2008