($55, McWilliams of Australia): The vines for this wine, some of which are still producing fruit, were first planted in the Laira Vineyard in 1896 by Captain Stentiford, an English sea captain.  McWilliams has avoided the temptation to make an over-the-top Shiraz from low-yielding vines that produce concentrated fruit.  Rather, its deep plummy flavors are accented by a hint of pepper, which extend into a fine finish.  It’s a classy, refined wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008