($22, Tom Eddy Wines): Despite its 14.5% alcohol, which it carries beautifully, Capel Vale’s Shiraz bares little resemblance to the powerfully concentrated ones from the Barossa Valley. There is no lack of fruit flavor or weight here, but what impresses is the exotic spices, bacon fat, complexity and great length.  It’s another example of captivating Western Australian Shiraz, one of that country’s best-kept secrets. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 15, 2008