($85, Ex Cellars Wine Agency): The quality and resulting deserved popularity of this wine–along with a sinking dollar–has increased its price dramatically.  Nonetheless, the Guigal’s sensational 2003 Brune et Blonde, clearly one of his best ever, should be in every Rhône-lover’s cellar.  This young wine is packed and succulent without being overdone.  It delivers incredible waves of flavor and almost magically combines the plumy and peppery aspect of Syrah. Pluminess comes from the extra ripeness imparted by the heat that marked that vintage.  The peppery component persists because that’s the character of wine made from grapes grown on the steep slopes of the Côte Rôtie. 96 Michael Apstein Oct 23, 2007