($69, Moet Hennessy USA): Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house in the world and dating from 1729, is making a welcome reappearance on these shores.  The Chardonnay grapes for this Blanc de Blancs come exclusively from premier cru villages.  A small amount of the Chardonnay comes from the Montagne de Reims, an area traditionally known for Pinot Noir, not Chardonnay.  As a result, Ruinart’s Blanc to Blancs has a very appealing power (not usually associated with this style of Champagne) to complement the inherent elegance of Chardonnay. 92 Michael Apstein Feb 27, 2007