($19, Moet Hennessy USA): The cooling effects of the Indian and Southern Oceans (the latter of which laps at the shores of Antarctica) influence the wines from Western Australia.  The more temperate climate–compared to parts of South Australia–means the grapes rarely get overripe and hence, the wines show restraint and balance.  Cape Mentelle, one of the first wineries of Western Australia, has become a leader in that area since its founding in 1970.  Better known for their finely honed Cabernet Sauvignon, Cape Mentelle’s Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend deserves more attention.  The lanolin-like smoothness imparted by Semillon complements and rounds out the Sauvignon Blanc without obliterating the latter’s attractive bite.  It’s a wonderfully balanced wine that marries a Chardonnay-like creaminess with the refreshing punch of Sauvignon Blanc. 90 Michael Apstein Feb 20, 2007