($13, Serge Doré Selections): Wines labeled Côte du Rhône Villages should be a cut above those labeled Côte du Rhône because they come from 18 selected villages with the potential to make better wine.  Often they are not, but in this instance, Domaine de la Renjarde fulfills expectations.  Juicy with earthy overtones, it is a well-balanced wine not marred by the over-ripeness common in wines from the scorching 2003 vintage.  Its robust profile and supporting tannins make it an ideal winter wine. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2007