($35): Cabernet Franc, which comprises roughly 2/3rds of the blend of Château Cheval Blanc–one of Bordeaux’s greatest wines–is a tricky grape to get right.  It produces wines with a distinctly vegetal character if it doesn’t ripen adequately.  Fortunately, Clos LaChance got this one right.  Theirs, like Cabernet Franc in general, lacks the power of Cabernet Sauvignon, but makes up for it with a Merlot-like earthiness and elegance.  Here’s a wine for veal. 90 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2007