($18, Neal Rosenthal): Do not worry about all the fine print identifying the origin of this wine.  Just remember it is Syrah made by Yves Cuilleron, one of the finest producers in the Rhône, where that grape is native.  Its classy, peppery profile is a great example of how Syrah fares in cooler climates.  Nuances of bacon fat remind me of wines from the neighboring Côte Rôtie area.  The price tag tells me it’s a bargain. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2006