($16, Billington Imports): Malbec, a grape from Bordeaux where it hangs on as a minor part of the traditional blend, has become the signature grape of Argentina.  It typically produces a powerful-but sometimes, clunky wine.  José Galante, the winemaker for Alamos (which is a second label of Catena-one of Argentina’s leading producers) has mastered the grape.  He has made a Malbec with elegance and suppleness while retaining the grape’s inherent intensity. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2006