($17, Kobrand): One of Burgundy’s greatest producers, Maison Louis Jadot has fashioned a beautiful introduction to red Burgundy with this wine. Uncharacteristic for the French, who typically shun grape names, Jadot plasters “Pinot Noir” in large type across the label just in case you forgot that all red Burgundy comes from that grape. Succulent red cherry-like flavors harmonize with a touch of earthiness in this smooth, mid-weight, supple wine. It has surprising balance, persistence and style for a Pinot Noir-based wine at this price. California Pinot Noir producers, be warned. 88 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2006