($20): This Riesling from Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek Vineyard has far more going on compared to their straight Columbia Valley bottling. Still, the balance of aromas of white flowers, peach-like fruitiness, and mouth-tingling vibrancy is there. These people know how to make Riesling.… Read more
Category Archives: USA – Washington
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2011
($20): Dr. Loosen, the famed German producer, and Chateau Ste. Michelle joined forces over a decade ago with the aim of making a stunning Riesling in Washington. Well, they’ve succeeded and its name is Eroica. The 2011, which may be their best ever, has a brilliant combination of lacey fruitiness–an almost Spätlese ripeness–offset by riveting acidity. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Gewurztraminer 2010
($9): What’s so remarkable about Château Ste. Michelle, Washington’s largest producer, is their ability to make terrific inexpensive as well as stunning high-end wines. This bargain-priced Gewürztraminer delivers spiced fruit-flavors (gewürz means spicy), cutting citrus acidity and a whiff of sweetness that amplifies the wine’s spicy side. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling “Eroica” 2010
($20): Eroica, a joint project between Dr. Loosen, one of Germany’s top Riesling producers, and Chateau Ste. Michelle, has been a smashing success since its launch in 1999. The 2010 continues that tradition with a delicate lacy fruitiness beautifully complemented by bracing and zesty citrus-like acidity. … Read more
Beast, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Wallula Vineyard “Sphinx” Riesling 2010
($25): This tongue-in-cheek labeled wine by Buty Winery explains why Riesling is making a resurgence. Dry, mineraly and racy, it’s a joy to drink and easy to recommend. And with less than 13%-stated alcohol, it’s certainly a beauty. 91 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2012… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Gewürztraminer 2010
($9): Delicate aromas of white flowers catch your attention, and lovely spice and vibrancy holds it. A subtle hint of sweetness reinforces the spiciness of the wine. It works well as an aperitif or with hard-to-match foods, such as roast pork.… Read more
Buty, Columbia Valley (Washington) Semillon Sauvignon Muscadelle 2009
($25): In this white Bordeaux blend, every variety seems to contribute without dominating. Muscadelle (8%) brings appealing and delicate floral notes, while the Semillon (65%) adds body and a seductive creamy waxiness. The Sauvignon Blanc gives the wine verve and bright acidity. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) White Riesling Late Harvest Reserve “Ethos” 2008
($35): Sweet wines, such as this one (sold in a 375 ml bottle) with 23% residual sugar, need to be judged on their acidity, not their sweetness. Without adequate acidity, the wine will be cloying and syrupy. This one has fabulous enlivening acidity and verve that just amplifies the apricot-tinged flavors that explode on the palate. … Read more
Buty Winery, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot/ Cabernet Franc 2009
($40): Caleb Foster, Buty’s winemaker and part owner, loves to blend wines. His Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah blend (also reviewed this week) is masterful. In that same vein is this Merlot-Cabernet Franc mixture, a blend that is popular in St. Emilion and Pomerol on Bordeaux’s right-bank. … Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2010
($15): Although not labeled “unoaked,” as is the current trend, brisk green apple notes suggest it might be. But discreet hints of toastiness demonstrate it’s not and offer a delicate complement. This bright and brisk wine, Chateau Ste. Michelle, “entry level” Chardonnay, is an excellent buy.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Indian Wells” 2009
($19): Chateau Ste. Michelle uses the Indian Wells moniker for their more upscale bottlings, which they describe on their website as “the lush and opulent New World style.” It is more lush and opulent than their very good regular Chardonnay (also reviewed this week), but by no means overdone. … Read more
Buty Winery, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Phinney Hill Vineyard “Columbia Rediviva” 2008
($50): Columbia Rediviva was the name of the ship that Captain Robert Gray sailed up the then unnamed river in 1792 searching for the ever elusive northwest passage. To recognize the importance of the river, Caleb Foster and Nina Buty Foster, owners of the winery, chose it for the name of one of their top wines, a Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Syrah blend. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2008
($16): Chateau Ste. Michelle, a consistently top-notch producer, has made another easy-to-recommend wine with this Merlot. A touch (7%) of Syrah adds warmth and just the right amount of heft. Toasty and suave, this forward fruity wine has ripe tannins that add structure without aggressiveness.… Read more
Chateau Ste Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2008
($13): Those who think that Syrah, as a varietal wine, has not lived up to its potential in the USA should try this one. As is the custom in the Northern Rhône, Chateau Ste Michelle has included a small amount (5%) of Viognier in the blend, which accounts for its lovely floral aspect. … Read more
Pacific Rim, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Selenium Vineyard Vin de Glaciére 2007
($18): Make no mistake, with 16 percent residual sugar, this is a sweet Riesling, best suited either with cheese or as dessert. (I am not an advocate of sweet wines with dessert because I think the sweetness of the dessert and the wine fight with one another, but that’s a subject I’ll to leave to Paul Lukacs and Marguerite Thomas’s “Wine With” column). … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2010
($23): Cadaretta has adopted the Western Australia custom of using SBS on the label to indicate a Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blend. The Semillon (25%) in Cadaretta’s blend puts a glossy coating on the grassy herbal pungency of Sauvignon Blanc and adds body. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2009
($18): Chateau Ste. Michelle consistently turns out wines that deliver far more than the prices suggests. This harmonious wine marries red and black fruit flavors with intriguing subtle herbal, almost minty, notes. Not overdone, it speaks to you instead of screaming at you. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Vineyard 2010
($15): Chateau Ste. Michelle touts their single vineyard wines, such as this one, as distinctive wines from a single site. That’s surely the case with this Sauvignon Blanc. Layers of citrus notes, herbal nuances and green apple vivacity make this an unusually complex Sauvignon Blanc. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling 2010
($9): Chateau Ste. Michelle continues its streak of making terrific, well-priced Riesling. The 2010 has the classic Riesling nose of flowers and minerals that follows through onto the palate. Limey acidity balances a delicate fruitiness and gives this dry Riesling a peppy signature. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot ‘Indian Wells’ 2009
($18): This Merlot conveys herbal, leafy nuances that offset the succulent black fruit flavors and gives the wine a more delicate and intriguing aspect. Polished and long, it’s far less of an overpowering fruit bomb than its 14.5 percent alcohol would suggest. … Read more
Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Genesis” 2008
($13): Genesis is the label Hogue Cellars, one of Washington’s leading producers, uses for their middle tier wines, in between those labeled simply Hogue Cellars and those labeled Hogue Reserve. A delicate, but not vapid, style of Chardonnay, it delivers fresh clean citrus and green apple notes at a very appealing price.… Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc /Semillon “SBS” 2009
($23): Although winemakers around the world frequently blend Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the grape names are not often seen on the label together. Adding Semillon to Sauvignon Blanc is a time-honored way of muting the pungency of the latter, which is the result in this wine.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Dry Riesling 2009
($9): This wine is an incredible bargain. A subtle stone fruit–peach or nectarine–character comes through and harmonizes with a gentle lemony acidity. Not aggressively dry, a hint of roundness balances Riesling’s inherent acidity. The style allows you to enjoy a glass as an aperitif and then carry it to the table to accompany a wide variety of dishes from chicken in a mushroomy cream sauce to a garlic-infused seafood stew. … Read more
Andrew Will, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2008
($24): Chris Camarda, winemaker at Andrew Will, states (not entirely objectively of course) that “This is the best Merlot for the price on the market today.” After tasting it, it’s hard to disagree. The economic recession has had its effect, forcing him to cut production of higher priced wines, to funnel some of those grapes into lower tier wines and to cut prices drastically. … Read more
Andrew Will, Horse Heaven Hills (Washington) “Sorella” 2007
($65): This Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Merlot (10%) and Petit Verdot, all from the Champoux vineyard, represents this producer’s best wine. With suave ripe black fruit and toasty notes, it’s a gorgeous combination of refinement and power. … Read more
Gordon Brothers, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay 2008
($16): As this Chardonnay demonstrates, Washington’s Columbia Valley is a fabulous source of wine. It delivers subtle creaminess and good intensity without hitting you over the head. With good vivacity, it’s suave and balanced–and a very good value. 90 Michael Apstein Mar 30, 2010… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay Cold Creek Vineyard 2007
($26): Of all their excellent Chardonnays, this one is Ste. Michelle’s most powerful one. That said, it still shows restraint and balance. Its exotic nose of toasty nuances leads into a rich and creamy mid-weight wine. A long stylish finish shows just how classy it is.… Read more
Pacific Rim, Columbia Valley (Washington) Riesling Wallula Vineyard “Biodynamic Cuvée” 2007
($20): Areas within Washington State, with cooler climate, are emerging as excellent sites in this country for Riesling. This beautifully balanced one exemplifies why Riesling is gaining in popularity. A subtle and intriguing interplay of minerality, fruitiness–hints of pear and grapefruit–and just a bare hint of sweetness set off by vibrant acidity makes it an ideal choice as an aperitif, with spicy fare or Asian food. … Read more
The Hogue Cellars, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope Reserve 2006
($30): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (88%) and Merlot, this classy wine has silky tannins that make it a joy to drink now. Tobacco and spice notes accompany its ample fruit flavors and prevent it from coming across as a “fruit bomb.” … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2007
($33): They’ve hit the mark with this full-sized Syrah–in only their second vintage. Lush but not over ripe, it manages to capture both the meaty and black fruit sides of Syrah. This full-bodied wine has hints of licorice and other dark flavors that suggest that it be matched with a hearty winter stew.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah “Ethos” 2006
($40): Chateau Ste. Michelle bottles their best varietal wines under the Ethos label. A blend from their best barrels, this Syrah has a small amount (2%) of Mourvedre that adds complexity. Big and ripe, it has enormous power, but yet, is not “over-the-top” despite its stated 14.7% alcohol. … Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage Red Wine 2006
($55): When in doubt as to what wine to buy, one from Château Ste. Michelle–at any price point–is a excellent choice because of their consistency. This one, a high end Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (35%), Malbec (6%) and Petit Verdot, is suave and polished. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
($40): Just when you thought you could generalize that Cabernet from Washington were lighter and less ripe than their California counterparts, you discover it’s not that simple. This robust blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), Petit Verdot (9%) Cabernet Franc (8%) and Merlot is as intense as any from California. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2008
($23): SBS, an abbreviation widely used in Western Australia, stands for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon and indicates the blend of the two varieties. Bright and vigorous, this wine has engaging edginess and a lip-smacking citric finish, undoubtedly coming from the Sauvignon Blanc, which comprises 80% of the blend. … Read more
Gordon Brothers, Columbia Valley (Washington) Syrah 2006
($20): Very attractive aromas of earthy minerality along with black fruit give forth to similar flavors on the palate. This Syrah emphasizes the ripe plummy character of the grape as opposed to the spicy, peppery quality. Nicely balanced, and not flamboyant, it has a pleasingly polished texture, making it perfect for current consumption.… Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Sauvignon Blanc 2007
($11): Chateau Ste. Michelle nearly always gets it right. They certainly did with this well-priced balanced Sauvignon Blanc. It has just the right combination of herbaceous flavors and acidity. It has a enlivening pungency without being shrill or aggressive. It’s perfect for summertime sipping with steamed clams.… Read more
Château Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Chardonnay “Indian Wells” 2007
($18): Château Ste. Michelle makes a superior range of well-priced wines. This one, made from a blend of grapes grown in a variety of vineyards, is a step up from their basic Columbia Valley Chardonnay. It combines subtle minerality with tropical fruit flavors and buttery nuances. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Meritage Red Wine 2005
($45): This wine, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Bordeaux blend, is a more concentrated and muscular version of their excellent Indian Wells Cabernet (reviewed previously). It has the same alluring combination of minerality and black fruit flavors with more power and a firmer tannic backbone, suggestive of mountain grown fruit. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot “Indian Wells” 2005
($17): This wine should dissuade any doubters that the Merlot grape can produce complex, deep wines with structure. Denser and riper than Chateau Ste. Michelle’s very good regular 2005 bottling (previously reviewed), the Indian Wells Merlot has more of everything, but is less revealing at this stage. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($17): A blend of Merlot (83%), Syrah (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is easy to recommend. The Syrah adds dark fruit character and a roasted quality, while even the seemingly trivial amount of Cabernet lends extra structure and support. Despite the presence of those two varietals, the inherent lovely leafy or herbal qualities characteristic of Merlot are apparent. … Read more
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine “Tradition” 2003
($40): It’s rare for a domestic winery to hold a wine back for 5 years–although it may become more common (unintentionally) with the current economic conditions. It’s a great opportunity for consumers to see for themselves how bottle age can transform and enhance a wine. … Read more
Col Solare, Columbia Valley (Washington) Red Wine 2005
($75): Col Solare is a Cabernet Sauvignon based joint venture between the Tuscan producer, Antinori, and Washington State’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. The 2005, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc, is a gorgeous wine. It’s an impeccably balanced seamless mixture of ripe black fruit and minerality supported by fine tannins and a perfect kick of black cherry acidity. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Colchagua Valley (Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon “Indian Wells” 2005
($17): This well-proportioned beautifully balanced Cabernet is a fabulous buy. In addition to its succulent black fruit flavors, herbal, almost tobacco, notes delight the senses. Not overly fruity or heavy, these non-fruit flavors persist into the long finish. Supple fine tannins add to the polish and elegance of the wine.… Read more
North Star, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($41): One whiff tells you this is serious wine. The taste confirms it. This serious Merlot, a blend from14 vineyard sites around the Columbia Valley, is powerful, but not overdone. You barely notice its 14.7% stated alcohol, even in the finish.… Read more
North Star, Walla Walla Valley (Washington) Merlot 2005
($60): In contrast to this brand’s Columbia Valley Merlot, this one from selected vineyards solely within the Walla Walla Valley emphasizes the minerality and succulent black fruit flavors of Merlot. The engaging herbal elements are still present, but more in the background in this dense, plush wine. … Read more
Cadaretta, Columbia Valley (Washington) “SBS” 2007
($22): Cadaretta, founded only in 2005 (they’re just planting their first vineyards this year) is, judging from this wine, a welcome addition to the Washington wine industry. Taking a cue from the Australians who name the wine and describe the blend by using initials, Cadaretta combines Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Semillon to make this bright and zesty wine. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Cold Creek Vineyard 2005
($26): With about 30 year-old vines, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek estate vineyard is one of the oldest in Washington State, which explains the depth and complexity of this wine. Long and broad, this is a serious Merlot, with intriguing smoky and gamey qualities. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Merlot Canoe Ridge Estate 2005
($22): The Canoe Ridge Estate, located in eastern Washington and planted in 1991, rests on a steep slope overlooking the Columbia Valley. While the vines are not ‘old,’ they have certainly settled in and account for some of the character found in this wine. … Read more
Chateau Ste. Michelle, Horse Heaven Hills (Columbia Valley, Washington) Cabernet Sauvignon Canoe Ridge Estate 2005
($28): The comparison of this Cabernet with its stablemate–the Canoe Ridge Merlot–supports my prejudice that Cabernet usually makes more interesting wines. Layered and complex, the tannins support ripe cassis and black cherry-like fruit. Thankfully, not an ‘over-the-top’ blockbuster wine, it has exquisite balance while conveying plenty of flavor.… Read more
Snoqualmie Vineyards, Columbia Valley (Washington) Merlot Reserve 2004
($25): Although easy to drink, Snoqualmie’s Reserve Merlot is definitely not an aperitif kind of Merlot. Lovely succulent black fruit flavors are intertwined with hints of damp earth. Chocolate nuances appear in the finish. This polished and well-rounded wine has plenty of structure, but no harsh or astringent tannins. … Read more