($25): A steal. Let me repeat — this wine is a steal. Falchini is perhaps best known for their lovely Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vigna a Solatio, which at $13, is another steal, but that’s another story. Their Paretaio, a Super Tuscan in everything but the price, could easily become their calling card. … Read more
Category Archives: Italy – Other
Allegrini, Veronese IGT (Italy) Palazzo della Torre 2011
($18): Allegrini, a leading Veneto producer, has adapted Amarone-like vinification to this wine, a blend of mostly Corvina and Rondinella, the grapes commonly used for Valpolicella. A small proportion of grapes are dried and added to the fresh wine the following fall, which starts another fermentation, which adds extra oomph to the wine. … Read more
Agricola Querciabella, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Camartina” 2010
($140): Founded only in 1974, Querciabella has leapt to the top tier of Tuscan producers, making an exceptional range of both red and white wines. Camartina, a blend of roughly 2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon and 1/3 Sangiovese, is their flagship red. It’s always a majestic wine, but the 2010 is even more extraordinary than usual. … Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Pinot Bianco 2014
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): This clean and fresh Pinot Blanc conveys a lovely delicacy, but has sufficient weight — and a subtle creaminess — to complement a light pasta course. Its floral and lacey character also makes it a perfect choice as either a stand-alone aperitif.… Read more
Girlan, Alto Adige/ Südtirol (Italy) Lagrein 2012
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers, Ltd): The name of the DOC — either Alto Adige or Südtirol — reflects the dual identity of this part of northern Italy, which abuts Austria. But this is a singularly appealing wine. Lagrein, not a well-known grape, should have more widespread popularity because it can produce a reasonably robust wine devoid of searing tannins and balanced by uplifting acidity. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana (Italy) Vermentino di Monteverro 2014
($25, Opici Wines): Monteverro, a relatively new player in Bolgheri sweepstakes, is aiming to join the Ornellaia and Sassicaia Super Tuscan club with their red wine. So it came as a great surprise to see the quality of this white. Their 2014 Vermentino is crisp, with an enticing floral whiff. … Read more
Ferrari, Trentino DOC (Italy) Blanc de Blancs “Perlé” 2007
($42, Palm Bay International): Ferrari is one of, if not the, top producer of sparkling wine in Trentino. This splendid one, Perlé, is made entirely from Chardonnay grown in a single vineyard. A firm backbone of acidity supports and balances its suave creaminess. … Read more
Monteverro, IGT Toscana Rosso (Italy) “Terra di Monteverro” 2011
($60, Opici Imports): Terra di Monteverro is the second wine of Monteverro. Though it’s a similar blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, the components have been selected because they are less structured and more accessible. Since the blend is less dense, it also undergoes less oak aging. … Read more
Montenidoli, Toscana Rosso IGT (Italy) “Sono Montenidoli” 2007
($55, Artisans Wines, Inc.): Since Montenidoli is one of the star producers of Vernaccia di San Gimignano, their red wines, such as this IGT Toscana, are often overlooked. That’s a mistake, since this one, labeled redundantly Sono Montenidoli for emphasis, is a sleeper of a Super Tuscan. … Read more
Tascante, Sicilia IGT (Italy) “Ghiaia Nera” 2012
($22, Dalla Terra Direct): Tascante is the name of the Mount Etna project of Tasca d’Almerita, one of the locomotives that have brought Sicilian wines to the world’s attention. (The name is an amalgamation of Tasca appended to Etna, spelled backwards.) … Read more
Why Are Italian Wines So Popular?
Italian wine has always been popular in the U.S., and today accounts for a staggering one out of every three bottles imported into this country. … Read more
Cantina Mesa, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi (Italy) “Buio Buio” 2010
($20, Montcalm Wine Importers): Made from the Carignano del Sulcis grape, the local name for Carignan grown in the Sulcis region of southwestern Sardinia, Buio Buio is a name to remember. For a vigorous and robust red, it has surprising finesse. … Read more
Alois Lageder, IGT Vignetti delle Dolomiti (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($16, Dalla Terra Winery Direct): Alois Lageder, one of the Alto Adige’s greatest producers, makes a host of stunning single vineyard wines. They also make lower priced wines, like this one, from grapes grown in a broader area that still transmit the character of the variety and the region. … Read more
Cantina Terlano, Terlaner Classico Alto Adige (Alto Adige, Italy) 2013
($25, Banville & Jones Wine Merchants): Terlano, the name of the co-op formed in 1860, is also the name of the town, which can lead to some confusion. There’s nothing confusing about the wine, however. This harmonious blend of Pinot Bianco (60%), Chardonnay (30%) and Sauvignon Blanc combines richness with vibrancy. … Read more
Attems, Venezia Giulia IGT (Italy) Pinot Grigio “Ramato” 2012
($18, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Despite its copper hue, Attems’ Pinot Grigio is not a rosé. Indeed, it is among the few renditions of Pinot Grigio that have an ever-so-slightly rusty pink color to them because the grape itself is pink skinned. … Read more
Attems, IGP Venezia Giulia (Italy) Pinot Grigio 2013
($17, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This wine explains the popularity of Pinot Grigio. Subtle floral quality and hint of peachiness all supported and amplified by a zingy backbone. This is the real thing. A versatile wine, it’s well suited as a stand-alone aperitif or, because of its depth, as an accompaniment to grilled striped bass or similar seafood. … Read more
Tenuta Perolla, IGP Toscana (Italy) Vermentino 2012
($12, San Felice, USA): San Felice, one of Tuscany’s great red wine producers, also makes this vibrant white from mostly (85%) Vermentino. A touch of Sauvignon Blanc makes it even more energetic. It’s a thoughtful blend because the combination of its lively character and depth make it an ideal accompaniment for simple summer seafood. … Read more
Age-Worthy Italian White Wine is not an Oxymoron
Livio Felluga’s Terre Alte redefines Italian white wine for me. Andrea Felluga, the current winemaker and general manager of the family-run firm, was recently in New York and led a vertical tasting of eight vintages of Terre Alte, spanning 15 years, back to 1997, that showed how magnificently this white wine developed with bottle age.… Read more
Castello Banfi, Toscana IGT (Italy) Cum Laude 2010
($37, Banfi Vintners): Castello Banfi, best known for its stunning Brunello di Montalcino, also produces an array of “Super Tuscan” wines, one of which is Cum Laude, an unconventional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese and Syrah. The 2010 Cum Laude may be their best ever. … Read more
Mionetto, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG (Italy) “Luxury” Extra Dry NV
($20): Mionetto, one of Prosecco’s leading producers, bottles a number of different ones. This one, an Extra-Dry — which paradoxically means it’s not the driest — is delicate and lacey. Slightly rounder than a Brut, it nonetheless has a refreshing crispness and green apple-like flavors. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGT Toscana (Italy) “Belnero” 2010
($25, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the leading producers Brunello di Montalcino, introduced Belnero a few years ago. It is composed almost exclusively of Sangiovese, though small amounts of “international varieties” are included in the blend. It has gotten better and better over the years. … Read more
Fontodi, IGT Colli Toscana Centrale (Italy) “Flaccianello della Pieve” 2010
($120, Vinifera Imports): Flaccianello is the flagship wine from Fontodi, a superb producer located in the Conca d’Oro (the golden shell) or heart of the Chianti Classico region. This pure Sangiovese beauty comes from their best grapes. Giovanni Manetti says they look for the smallest bunches, usually found on the vines at the top of their vineyards, that provide a better ratio of skin to juice. … Read more
Castello Banfi, IGP Toscana (Italy) “Cum Laude” 2010
($33, Banfi Imports): Castello Banfi, one of the top producers of Brunello di Montalcino, also makes excellent wines from outside of that revered DOCG zone. This one, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Sangiovese, and Syrah, clearly nods toward the “modern” style with lush red and black fruit flavors, but still has an complementary and intriguing Brunello-like dark, earthy, almost chocolaty component. … Read more
Negroamaro: Black & Bitter from Italy’s Heel
“Black and bitter.” It certainly wasn’t a name create by a public relations firm. To be fair, Luigi Rubino, President of the Puglia Best Wine Consortium points out the name really means “black and black” from both the Latin (negro) and Greek (amaro) for black. … Read more
Ornellaia: An Italian Icon, Part 2
As Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, pointed out, luck played a role in Ornellaia’s success. It was lucky that Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia’s founder, went to California in search of vineyards because it was there that he met André Tchelistcheff, Beaulieu Vineyards’ legendary winemaker. … Read more
Ornellaia: An Italian Icon
“It was luck,” according to Axel Heinz, the winemaker at Ornellaia, that accounted for the extraordinarily rapid ascent of Ornellaia in the eyes of the world. “It was lucky that Mario Incisa della Rocchetta [owner of Sassicaia] planted Bordeaux varieties when [in the 1940s] and where he did [Bolgheri]. … Read more
Brunello di Montalcino 2.0
In preparation for my attendance at Benvenuto Brunello, the annual tasting of the newly released 2005 Brunello di Montalcino, held in that Tuscan hilltop town, I did some homework by opening and drinking some from my cellar—a 2001 La Gerla, a 1999 Fulgini, a 1998 Banfi Poggio alle Mura, and a 1997 Banfi Poggio all’Oro.… Read more
Italy’s Soave region split over DOCG label
Italy – Everything should be coming up roses for Soave. The wines, historically among Italy’s best whites, have never been better.
Yet a debate over whether to use a new designation, Superiore DOCG, threatens to spoil the renaissance of a region that has finally recovered from a long spell as a source of underwhelming wine.… Read more
Abruzzo on the Rise
If you are looking for wines that deliver more than their price suggests (and who isn’t during these economic times?), it pays to learn about Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, an intense red wine that stands up to the flavorful, chili-laden Abruzzi cuisine.
These wines often have a rustic side, which can be appealing, but when not controlled can impart wild ‘horsey’ flavors. … Read more
Super Tuscan producers size up Syrah
It was the first time I’ve been stopped by customs officials going into Italy. At Rome’s Leonardo di Vinci International Airport, the uniformed official looked up from his coffee and conversation with several co-workers as I pushed my luggage chart through the green — nothing to declare — channel.… Read more
Prosecco: Sparkling Summer Sipping
Prosecco, Italy’s unique and stellar contribution to the world of sparkling wine, must have been invented for summertime. Although the Italians drink it year round as an aperitif (consuming over two-thirds of the region’s 3 million case annual production), summer is the perfect discovery time for those unfamiliar with the joys of this light and “friendly” wine. … Read more
It Takes a Noble Grape to Make a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano exemplifies the confusion surrounding Italian wine labels. This wine’s meteoric increase in quality over the past decade has yet to be matched by its price, so it’s definitely worth unraveling the name.
The Italians name their wines by place name, such as Chianti, or grape name — think Pinot Grigio — or both, Dolcetto d’Alba. … Read more
Reserve Wines Score, But at What Price?
Bait and switch, an unsavory tactic in the used-car business, is finding its way into the wine industry. Think of the bait as a New World reserve wine that is produced simply to generate a 90-point-plus score from a top wine critic.… Read more