($23): This sparkling wine from François Pinon, one of the leading producers in Vouvray, dazzles with its mineraly chalky signature. The limestone and flint soil gives it real character and structure.  It conveys a pleasing firmness without being aggressive because the inherent fruitiness of Chenin Blanc balances its moderate fizziness. … Read more

($22): Savennières is an often-overlooked appellation in the Loire.  Here the Chenin Blanc grape produces steely stony wines without a trace of sweetness, a characteristic usually associated with that grape.  Without doubt, Baumard is one of the top producers of Savennières. … Read more

($57, Wilson Daniels): The Oxford Companion to Wine notes that Grolleau, a local red grape of the Loire, “produces extremely high yields of relatively thin, acid wine and it is to the benefit of wine drinkers that it is so systematically being replaced with Gamay and, more recently, Cabernet Franc.” … Read more

($57, Wilson Daniels): Here is an example of a wine that far exceeds the reputation of its appellation.  Though there are well known appellations for red wines in Loire — Bourgueil and Chinon spring to mind — Anjou is not one of them. … Read more

($57, Wilson Daniels): Anne Claude Leflaive, who runs Domaine Leflaive, perhaps the most celebrated producer of white Burgundy, and her husband, Christian Jacques, purchased this domaine in 2008.  It’s remarkable to see how a woman who made her reputation making some of the world’s greatest wines from the Chardonnay grape excels with Cabernet Franc. … Read more

($12, Cognac One): Open the trunk of your car and load in a case of this wine to combat the heat and humidity of August.  As expected from Muscadet, it is bright and fresh with an almost prickly acidity that is truly mouth cleansing. … Read more

($19, Daniel Johnnes Selection): Domaine FL, short for Fournier-Longchamps, has threaded the needle with this wine made from Chenin Blanc.  (French appellation laws generally prohibit grape names on labels.  Hence, Le Chenin is the proprietary name of the wine.)  The wine conveys the fruitiness and roundness–almost a hint of sweetness — that Chenin Blanc delivers supported by a lovely line of acidity that prevents it from being sweet. … Read more

($25, Beaune Imports): Vouvray is often shunned because the consumer can’t discern the level of sweetness from the label.  Well, there’s no reason to shun Chidaine, one of the leaders in Vouvray.  His 2012 Les Argiles is fruity, yet dry, and pleasantly piercing, which makes it positively mouth cleansing.… Read more

($17, Monsieur Touton): A solid Sancerre reflecting its origins, not just the Sauvignon Blanc grape, Durand’s 2012 delivers nice bite, without being aggressive.  Citrus elements dazzle the palette in the finish.  It’s refreshing and a good choice for mussels or other shellfish.… Read more

($17, The Country Vintner): The vast majority of wines from Chinon, likely more than 95%, are red, so you don’t see many on retailers’ shelves. If you see this one, buy it. Made from Chenin Blanc, it’s entirely dry with vibrant stone fruit-like nuances.… Read more

($15, Cynthia Hurley French Wines): I don’t have enough experience with Chinon to say that Couly-Dutheil is the area’s best producer.  But I can’t think of producer whose wines are consistently better. Couly-Dutheil produces a variety of bottling reflecting the diversity and individuality of their vineyards.… Read more

($20, Polaner): Quincy, a small (400 acre) appellation in the Loire, is a good source for Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, especially as the prices of its more famous neighbor, Sancerre, escalate.  This one has a milder, but still enticing, bite of Sauvignon Blanc supported by minerality and invigorating acidity. … Read more

($65, Polaner): You read the vintage correctly.  The Touchais family, which has owned vineyards in the Coteaux-du-Layon appellation since the 18th century, produces sweet wines from extremely ripe Chenin Blanc grapes that concentrate their sugars by drying on the vines (as opposed to being affected by Botrytis). … Read more

($11, Polaner Selections): A small appellation between a lake and the Loire River, Côtes de Grandlieu is a much smaller and less well known subregion of Muscadet compared to Sèvre et Maine. Its location between two bodies of water entails a slightly warmer climate and explains why the wines tend to be just a touch riper than most Muscadet.… Read more

($16, Polaner Selections): Who says Muscadet doesn’t develop with age? This one is fresh, mineraly and mature all at the same time. Savory notes peek through, adding even more surprise and complexity. Despite all this, it retains the quintessential spark and vivacity of Muscadet.… Read more

($16, Martine Wines):  Métaireau is one of Muscadet’s best and most consistent producers.  And this wine reflects his considerable talents.  With an unusual ripeness for Muscadet, it still delivers a bracing Granny Smith apple-like vibrancy typical of the appellation.  Mineraly and long, it shows that Muscadet can produce wines with considerable complexity. … Read more

($13, Michael Skurnick Wines):  I hear the skeptics. A four-year-old Muscadet from what subregion?  Côtes de Grandlieu is a far smaller subregion within Muscadet than the more famous Sèvre et Maine.  It’s a slightly warmer area because its stony soil acts as a heat pump at night and its location between the Loire a large lake moderates the climate.  … Read more

($11, Palm Bay International):  Muscadet remains one of the bargain sections of any wine list or wine shop.  Located on the Atlantic coast on the western end of the Loire River, its wines have been paired traditionally with the local seafood. … Read more

($25, Louis/Dressner):  Savennières is a dry, taut and focused expression of Chenin Blanc.  This wine proves the rule, and for an accessible price.  The lean mineral nose translates to the palate.  A few minutes’ wait allows the characteristic lanolin, quince, Granny Smith apple, and Anjou pear notes to emerge. … Read more

($32, The Rare Wine Company):  If this were hockey, this wine would have scored a hat trick (three goals in a game by a single player for the non-hockey fans)–a great producer, a great vineyard and a great vintage.  The problem with Vouvray in general is the difficulty knowing the level of sweetness of the wine from the label. … Read more

($16, Vineyard Brands):  Vouvray in general can be difficult for consumers because their level of sweetness can be difficult to discern from the label.   Thankfully, Pichot’s is an easy choice.  Both fruity and zesty, it has a wonderful tension and balance between the subtle sweetness and bracing acidity. … Read more

($22, Vineyard Brands):  One taste of Cherrier’s 2011 Sancerre explains why this appellation has been so popular.  Flinty and chalky, almost smokey, notes accompany the pungency and vibrancy typical of Sauvignon Blanc.  But it’s not a Sauvignon Blanc.  Its beauty lies with its minerality rather than the all too often aggressive grassiness of that varietal.… Read more

($15, Vineyard Brands):  Also known at “Black Label,” this is Château de la Ragotière’s top Muscadet, made from 50 year old vines.  Yes, it’s bracing as Muscadet should be.  But it has a lovely texture and depth–it must be the old vines speaking–that is lacking in most Muscadet. … Read more

($25):  The problem with Sancerre over the last two or three decades has been its popularity, both in the bistros of Paris and on these shores.  The result has been a dilution of quality with many examples tasting more like Sauvignon Blanc and less like Sancerre. … Read more

($24):  Savennières, a tiny appellation on the Loire River, makes unique dry and racy wines from Chenin Blanc, a grape better known for sweet wines.  Baumard is one of the appellation’s leading producers.  Baumard’s 2008, bottled under screw cap to preserve freshness, has an alluring combination of honey-like, but not sweet, richness and savory, sharp, che 91 Michael Apstein May 22, 2012… Read more

($38):  As good as Baumard’s regular bottling of Savennières is, this one, from a particularly well-sited vineyard, is even better. With more complexity, the interplay of richness and savory herbal notes in the Clos du Papillon creates even more intrigue.  Despite the increased concentration, this maintains impeccable balance and finesse.… Read more

($70, Vintus):  Quarts de Chaume, a tiny appellation in the Loire Valley, is capable of producing extraordinary sweet wines from the Chenin Blanc grape.  Florent Baumard believes that the hallmark of the 2008 vintage is an uplifting acidity in the wines. … Read more

($22, Moët Hennessey USA):  I love authentic Sancerre, such as this one, because it transmits an earthy chalky edginess, along with the grapefruity side of Sauvignon Blanc.  The 2010 Chateau de Sancerre has length and body, elements often lacking in modern Sancerre. … Read more

($21, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  Vouvray, an under-rated and misunderstood appellation, is home to some terrific wines, like this one.  But the stumbling block for consumers, which prevents more widespread appreciation of the category, is deciphering the level of sweetness.  This one is almost bone dry and mineraly with delicate green apple notes. … Read more

($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  Although Sauvignon Blanc is the required grape in Sancerre for white wine, authentic Sancerre evokes the place, not the grape.  Fortunately for consumers, Serge Laporte makes authentic Sancerre.  His importer tells me that half of the wine comes from Les Monts Damnés (the damned mountains) in Chavignol, considered by many to be Sancerre’s best site, which could explain why this wine is so distinctive. … Read more

($25, AP Wine Imports):  Menetou-Salon, a small appellation near Sancerre, is a good place for consumers to find vibrant Sauvignon Blanc-based wines, like this one from Domaine Jean Teiller.  Not just delivering grapefruit-tinged fruitiness, this conveys a mouth-watering chalky minerality.  Good intensity and length adds to its distinctiveness and makes it easy to recommend.… Read more

($25, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  Cynthia Hurley is an “old-time” small importer whose name on a bottle is a guarantee of quality.  Focusing exclusively on French wines, she relies on her judgment and palate, instead of point scores from critics, to find distinctive wines from small producers. … Read more

($18, Cynthia Hurley Imports):  La Coulée, one of the prime vineyards in Chinon, has multiple owners.  To distinguish his from the rest, Couly-Dutheil, arguably Chinon’s top producer, labels this as “Automnale.”  The 2009 vintage in the Loire, like the rest of France, was fabulous, producing ripe, yet balanced red wines, like this mid-weight one. … Read more

($20, Simon N Cellars):  The Loire Valley is so well known for its vibrant whites that consumers often overlook the reds from this region.  That’s a shame because when fully ripe, Cabernet Franc, the major red grape in the region, delivers a lovely balance of red fruit flavors and leafy notes. … Read more

($15, W J Deutsch):  Sur lie means the wine has been kept on the lees (dead yeast), which act as an anti-oxidant keeping the wine fresh and lively, until bottling.  That may explain why the 2010 Château du Cléray is even snappier at this stage than the 2009 (previously reviewed). … Read more

($21, Pasternak Wine Imports):  Guy Saget, one of the Loire’s best producers, has controlled this domaine for the past 15 years.  The 2009, a great vintage in the Loire, is one of his best.  With so much diluted Sancerre on the market, it’s a pleasure to find this one, full of chalky minerality. … Read more

($15, WJ Deutsch): Every time I taste a Muscadet of this quality I wonder why the category is under-appreciated and the wines so inexpensive. Sure, there are
underachievers in Muscadet making vapid wine, but probably no more than in most regions.… Read more

($25, David Milligan Selections):  Sancerre is enormously popular, not only in Paris bistros, but around the world.  And often with popularity comes dilution of quality, which, in the case of Sancerre, has led to many vapid wines that have zestiness but little else.… Read more

($15, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet, especially from the Sèvre-et-Maine subregion, remains an under appreciated source of bright and zesty unoaked wines.   This one, from one of the area’s leading producers, comes from 50-year old vines, which helps explain its fascinating complexity.  Mineraly, flinty even, it has uncommon (for Muscadet) depth and length. … Read more

($20, David Milligan Selections):  Ménétou-Salon is a small appellation just to the west of Sancerre that also requires use of Sauvignon Blanc for its white wines, which typically are a little softer and gentler than those of its more famous neighbor. … Read more

($37, Vintus):  Côteaux du Layon (Loire Valley, France)  2007 ($37, Vintus): Baumard is a genius with the Chenin Blanc grape, producing stellar dry wines–Savennières–and glorious sweet ones–Quarts des Chaumes and this single vineyard one from the Côteaux du Layon.  The beauty of this wine is its racy acidity that enlivens it, keeps it fresh and balances the sweetness. … Read more

($25, Cynthia Hurley):  White wine from Chinon is rare because the soil and climate is far more conducive to Cabernet Franc than to Chenin Blanc.  But it’s worth the search for this wine, not because of its rarity, but because of its unique character. … Read more

($25, Cynthia Hurley):  This light to mid-weight red, made entirely from Cabernet Franc, is a good choice when you need a red wine this summer.  Named after the winemaker’s grandmother, it combines delicate leafy undertones, fresh cherry-like flavors and minerality.  Silky tannins allow immediate enjoyment. … Read more

($13, Louis Dressner):  Muscadet is one of those regions whose good wines are terribly under-priced for the enjoyment they deliver.  The character-filled wines, like this one from the subregion of Sèvre-et-Maine, suffer from the reputation of many that are vapid and hollow. … Read more

($14, Vineyard Brands):  Muscadet remains one of the bargain wines in the world.  True, many can be thin and vapid.  But when they have depth and concentration, like this one, their lemony acidity just amplifies their pleasure.  An appealing chalky earthy character accompanies its citrus qualities. … Read more

($23, Vineyard Brands):  Patient Cottat is one of the labels that Fournier Père & Fils, an excellent Loire producers based in Verdigny, uses for wines from his own vineyards.  It’s a lovely Sancerre with the depth and length you’d expect from 30+ year-old vines planted on limestone soil. … Read more

($41, Premium Wine Company):  Les Monts Damnes (literally, damned mountains), so named because of the steepness of the slope, is one of the best sites in Sancerre and would be categorized as Grand Cru if that system existed in the appellation. … Read more

($13, Fruit of the Vine):  Quincy is a tiny (400-acre) appellation west of Sancerre where regulations mandate Sauvignon Blanc for white wines just as in Sancerre.  This wine speaks more of the grape with zesty citrus flavors than underlying minerality, but it is easy to recommend with raw or simply prepared seafood, especially at this bargain price.… Read more

($20, Jean-Marie Dechamps):  Despite the “fume” in its name, I don’t find smokey notes consistently in wines from Pouilly-Fumé.  Benoît Roumet, the director of Les Vins du Centre Loire, says he often has difficulty distinguishing wines from Pouilly-Fumé from its across the river town of Sancerre since the soil in many spots on both sides of the river is similar.  … Read more