Category Archives: USA – California

Merry Edwards Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Olivet Lane 2018

($72):  The dark and brooding 2018 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir is amazingly refined, especially considering its concentration.  Less floral and fragrant than the Klopp Ranch, it expands and explodes as it sits in the glass.  Initially, black fruit flavors predominate, but with air and time, savory notes appear and take over. Read more

Merry Edwards, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard 2017

($63):  The Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir, a new addition to the Merry Edwards portfolio, could be considered Heidi von der Mehden’s “baby.”  Heidi, who took over as winemaker with the 2018 vintage, had been working with Merry Edwards since 2015 and was given the responsibility for making the 2016 Bucher Pinot Noir, their first. Read more

Talbott Vineyards, Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County, California) Chardonnay Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Estate Grown 2017

($42):  David Coventry, the head winemaker at Talbott explained during a webinar in the excellent SommCon Geographical Digest Series (a collaboration between The Somm Journal and National Geographic), that the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is truly a cool climate area because of its proximity to the ocean. Read more

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay “Russian River Selection” 2018

($35):  Gary Farrell is well-known for producing excellent single-vineyard Pinot Noirs.  They also produce a bevy of single-vineyard Chardonnays.  This one, however, their Russian River Selection, is a blend of Chardonnay grown in five vineyards: Westside Farms, Bacigalupi Vineyard, Rochioli, Allen and Olivet Lane. Read more

J. Lohr, Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Signature” 2016

($90):  An over-sized bottle with the wine weighing in at 15.1 percent stated alcohol accurately predicts the nature of this Cabernet Sauvignon:  powerful.  Fruit-forward and dominant, it’s a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with small amounts of Merlot, Malbec, Carmenere and Saint-Macaire, an ancient grape from Bordeaux, which is no longer used there, but was included in the allowed mix for Meritage wines in California. Read more

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Santa Maria Valley (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir Bien Nacido Vineyard 2016

($70):  Santa Maria Valley’s east-west orientation is unusual in California where most of the valleys run north-south.  Its orientation, which allows cooling Pacific Ocean breezes, explains its cooler climate despite its southern California location.  The bright red fruit-like profile reflects the coolness of the site. Read more

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Martaella Vineyard 2016

($65):  Those who love a more robust style of Pinot Noir will embrace the Martaella Vineyard bottling from Gary Farrell, in relation to the rest of this producer’s lineup.  The focus here is on the ripe, plum-like fruitiness.  As with all of Farrell’s Pinot Noirs, the tannins are fine and the textured refined, which makes it easy to enjoy now. Read more

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard 2016

($55):  This wine presents a fascinating comparison with the Farrell’s Dijon Clones Pinot Noir from the same vineyard.  The winemaker says it’s a blend of five clones of Pinot Noir instead of two Dijon clones.  It has the same power as the Dijon Clones bottling, but reveals less complexity at this stage. Read more

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir Hallberg Vineyard Dijon Clones 2016

($60):  The warmer Russian River Valley compared to Farrell’s Fort Ross bottling explains the riper style of this Pinot Noir.  Black fruit flavors mingle with savory earthy components in this juicy, bright, and long wine.  Though slightly bigger and bolder than their Fort Ross Pinot Noir, it remains impeccably balanced. Read more

Site Trumps Everything

Tasting a line-up of the 2016 Gary Farrell Pinot Noirs shows why Theresa Heredia, the winemaker for wines, is adamant about the importance of site.  Same grape variety, same vintage, same winemaking, so how else to explain the wonderful difference between the Pinot Noir she made from grapes grown in the Fort Ross Vineyard in the Fort Ross—Seaview AVA and the one made from those in the Toboni Vineyard, located in the Russian River Valley? 
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Dry Creek Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County, California) Sauvignon Blanc 2019

($20):  The inclusion of Sauvignon Gris, a faintly colored mutation of Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignon Musqué, which some believe is a biotype of Sauvignon Blanc, helps explain this wine’s appealing fleshy texture.  (Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Blanc have identical DNA and therefore are the same grape, according to Jancis Robinson et al’s Wine Grapes.) Read more

Siduri Wines, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2018

($30):  The grapes for this multi-vineyard bottling come primarily from the Sta. Rita Valley, whose east-west orientation is rare in California where most of the valleys run north-south.  Sta. Rita’s orientation allows cool Pacific Ocean influences to reduce temperatures, especially close to the coast, making it an ideal locale for growing Pinot Noir, a grape that prefers lower temperatures to higher ones. Read more

Siduri Wines, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir 2018

($40):  Siduri, known for their single-vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir has expanded their portfolio to include ones from a variety of vineyards.   In this case, the grapes come from throughout the Russian River Valley.  Compared to its Willamette Valley bottling, their Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is broader and riper, with dark fruit flavors. Read more

Qupé, Santa Barbara County (Central Coast, California) Chardonnay Y Block 2018

($22):   Qupé, established in 1982, has always focused on wines made from varieties usually associated with France’s Rhône Valley — Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Marsanne and Roussanne.  So where did this fabulous Chardonnay come from.  The Chardonnay came from the famed Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, primarily from the Y Block, which was planted exclusively for Qupé in 2005, according to their website.  Read more

River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Pinot Noir “Stephanie’s Cuvée” 2017

($30):   With raspberry-like nuances, this fruit-forward Pinot Noir has moderate weight and suave tannins.  Lively acidity keeps it fresh.  The 14.3 percent stated alcohol, noticeable by a slightly hot finish, adds a pleasing roundness to the wine.  Thankfully, not being a bombastic wine, it would go nicely with grilled salmon.Read more

River Road Family Vineyards and Winery, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2018

($25):  Here is a polished Cabernet Sauvignon that displays black fruit enrobed in suave tannins.  Despite plenty of dark fruit flavors, it’s not overweight as evidenced by its modest — by today’s standards — 13.9 percent stated alcohol.  Its creamy texture and kiss of vanilla-like notes allows for immediate enjoyment.Read more

Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017

($50):  The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. Read more

Sequoia Grove, Napa Valley (California) Chardonnay 2017

($32):  Sequoia Grove is an “old-timer” in terms of Napa Valley wineries, having been founded 40 years ago, in 1979.  Their 2017 Napa Valley Chardonnay delivers richness, opulence and a healthy dose of oakiness. Good acidity keeps it fresh. Those looking for subtlety in their Chardonnay should look elsewhere, but those who embrace sumptuousness in their Chardonnay will love it.Read more

Dutton-Goldfield, Green Valley of Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay Dutton Ranch, Walker Hill Vineyard 2017

($50):  The contrasting Chardonnay under the Dutton-Goldfield label displays the same balance and suaveness as its brother from the Rued Vineyard. Instead of citrus notes, subtle toasty and nutty ones caress the palate. Still, great enlivening acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. Read more

Piper Sonoma, Sonoma County (California) Blanc de Blancs NV

($22):  Piper Sonoma, a subsidiary of Piper Heidsieck, the French Champagne company, has been producing sparkling wines in California since 1980.  Their wines have taken a quantum leap in quality recently.  Take this Blanc de Blancs for example.  Made primarily from Chardonnay (75%), with Pinot Blanc rounding out the blend, it is focused, with touches of green apple-like flavors.Read more