($41): Wine is full of surprises. At what turned out to be a very good, unassuming-looking Cambodian restaurant in Brooklyn, Lulu Mae, I saw a Grüner Veltliner by the glass for all of $12 on their short but enticing wine list. … Read more
Category Archives: Austria
Nigl, Kremstal (Niederösterreich, Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Freheit” 2012
($20): Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s “national” white grape, is capable of making delectable wines. And Nigl has done just that. There’s a hint of white pepper that beautifully offsets subtle peach-like flavors. Potent acidity keeps in bright and lively throughout a meal. … Read more
Weingut Meinhard Forstretter, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Grooner” 2012
($12, Frederick Wildman and Sons, Ltd.): Austria’s primary white grape and wine, Grüner Veltliner has the potential to soar in popularity because it is an ideal choice with a wide range of foods. In the past, I’d advise those in doubt about what wine to serve with a particular food to choose Riesling or Champagne.… Read more
Laurenz, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Singing” 2010
($16, Folio Fine Wine Partners): With over a third of Austrian vineyards planted with it, Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature grape. Laurenz’s version, dubbed Singing, has a lovely combination of delicate floral notes offset by subtle peppery ones. An alluring restraint and austerity make it a welcome change from the over ripe and overdone white wines that seem to be commonplace today. … Read more
Pfaffl Wine Estate, Weinviertel (Niederösterreich, Austria) St. Laurent Altenberg Vineyard 2007
($44, Palm Bay International): St. Laurent, a grape related to Pinot Noir according to DNA profiling, is gaining popularity in Austria. After tasting this splendid example, it’s easy to see why. It’s a harmonious marriage of sweet and savory notes, with even a trace of a bitter cherry finish. … Read more
Pfaffl Wine Estate, Weinviertel (Niederösterreich, Austria) Gruner Veltliner Haidviertel Vineyard 2010
($20, Palm Bay Imports): One of the leaders in Weinviertel region, Pfaffl is a family owned estate just outside of Vienna that makes an array of lovely wines. This one, from a single vineyard in the town of Stetten overlooking the Danube, reminds us that Grüner Veltliner, as difficult as it may be to pronounce, is a varietal worth remembering. … Read more
Pfaffl Wine Estate, Niederösterreich (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Austrian Pepper” 2010
($15, Palm Bay International): One of the leaders in Weinviertel, a subregion of the Niederösterreich, Pfaffl is a family owned estate just outside of Vienna that deserves their fine reputation. This, what they refer to as their “entry level” wine is a stunning example of a bargain-priced Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s signature white grape. … Read more
Anton Bauer, Wagram (Austria) Grüner Veltliner Rosenberg 2009
($17, Select Wines): For those unfamiliar with Gruner Veltliner, Austria’s most widely planted grape, this would be an excellent place to start because Bauer is a top-notch producer and the Rosenberg vineyard is a prime spot. Faintly, but distinctly, aromatic, this Gruner Veltliner is dry with a firm texture combined with subtle citrus notes in the finish. … Read more
Weingut Willi Bründlmayer, Kamptal (Austria) Riesling Heiligenstein Alte Reben 2008
($50, Skurnik): Heiligenstein, located in the village of Zöbinger, is one of Austria’s most acclaimed vineyards. Bründlmayer is one Austria’s best producers. Combine the two and throw in old vines (Alte Reben) and it’s no surprise about the extraordinary quality and distinctiveness of this wine. … Read more
Karl Lagler, Wachau (Austria) Grüner Veltliner “Burgberg” Federspeil 2007
($20, Domaine Select): What’s in the bottle is worth the time to unravel what’s on the bottle, so here goes: Wachau is easy because it’s Austria’s best wine growing area, just west of Vienna on the Danube, and Burgberg’s one of the villages there. … Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Gruner Veltliner Gmork Vineyard 2005
($13): Anton Bauer, who took the reins of this family winery in 1992-at the ripe age of 20-is making wonderful white wines, including this one from his Gmork vineyard. Its lovely minerality, balanced by its bright and racy character, makes it best used with a meal as opposed to an aperitif.… Read more
Anton Bauer, Donauland (Austria) Riesling Berg Vineyard 2005
($18): Bauer has managed to combine an engaging fleshiness with a steely frame to fashion a thoroughly enjoyable and balanced Riesling that finishes without a trace of sweetness. Those who shun Riesling believing, erroneously, that it is always sweet, need to try this wine.… Read more