Category Archives: WRO Reviews

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis (Burgundy, France) 2022

($40):  Combine William Fèvre, one of the top producers in Chablis, with an excellent vintage for that region and you get a terrific village wine.  William Fèvre owns a staggering 200 acres of vineyards in Chablis, just under half of which carry either 1er Cru or Grand Cru designations, which leaves them a lot of choice for what they bottle under the village appellation. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Toscana Rosso IGT (Tuscany, Italy) “Taneto” 2021

($25, VOS Selections):  I was unfamiliar with the Pisa-based producer, Badia di Morrona until their Italian public relations firm sent me samples.  After tasting a trio of their wines, I’m glad I’ve been introduced!  Taneto, a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese, and Merlot, delivers both dark fruit and a “not just fruit” character that makes it very appealing. Read more

Badia di Morrona, Terre di Pisa DOC (Tuscany, Italy) Sangiovese “VignaAlta” 2019

($42, VOS Selections):  With their N’Antia, Badia di Morrona shows how well Bordeaux varieties do in Tuscany outside of Bolgheri.  With VignaAlta, they show that Sangiovese reigns supreme in Tuscany.  Racy and elegant, the youthful 2019 VignaAlta is show stopping.  Sure, red and dark cherries, the signature of Tuscan Sangiovese, are evident but more emerges as the wine sits in the glass. Read more

Lionel Faury, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) “Les Ribaudes” 2021

($41, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  St. Joseph, an important but sometimes overlooked appellation in the Northern Rhône, is exceptionally long, running on the west bank of that river from Cornas in the south to Condrieu in the north.  Its soils and exposures are varied, given its length, unlike its more circumscribed neighbors, Cornas, Hermitage, and Côte Rôtie, so it’s hard to generalize about the wines. Read more

Rotem and Mounir Saouma, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) “Arioso” 2020

($175, Vintus):  With Arioso, and indeed all of Rotem and Mounir Saouma’s Rhône wines, the finesse and weightlessness of Burgundy meets the muscle of the Rhône.  In Burgundy, the husband-and-wife team is a mini-négociant, buying small amounts of grapes or newly pressed wine from growers—typically just a few barrels—raising it, and bottling it under the Lucien Le Moine label. Read more

Silver Oak, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County, California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2020

($100):  Plush and sexy, Silver Oak’s dazzling 2020 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon delivers succulent dark fruit offset by black olive-like nuances.  Polished and suave tannins provide support without being intrusive or distracting, allowing for immediate enjoyment with a steak.  Good acidity keeps it bright and you coming back for another sip.Read more

Nicolas-Jay Estate, Willamette Valley (Oregon) Pinot Noir “L’Ensemble” 2022

($75):  Nicolas-Jay, a collaboration between Jean-Nicolas Méo, who runs the celebrated Domaine Méo-Camuzet, one of Burgundy’s top producers, and Jay Boberg, a music industry giant, is just a decade old and is already one of Oregon’s leading producers.  Only the second vintage vinified in their own winery, their 2022s all have a captivating purity and elegance. Read more

Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016

($96):  Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure.  At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled.  At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances. Read more

Conde Valdemar, Rioja Reserva (Spain) 2015

($30, Cru Selections):  Regulations for the Reserva category of Rioja require at least 3 years of aging, one of which must be in barrel, before release.  Many, like this beauty, are aged longer before they hit retailers’ shelves.  Hint of brown mahogany in the color announces it maturity and the non-fruit panoply of flavors (coffee and even leather-like notes) on the palate confirms it. Read more

Mar de Frades, Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain) Albariño 2022

($23, Zamora Company):  Albariño and Rías Baixas are practically synonymous.  Yes, there is a little other white wine produced aside from Albariño, and of course, in neighboring Portugal, the same grape (Alvarinho in Portuguese) is used for Vinho Verde.  But Albariño from Rías Baixas is hard to resist, especially in the summer because its uplifting citrus acidity refreshes and simultaneously cuts through most anything on the table, even barbecued chicken. Read more

Tapiz, San Pablo, Uco Valley (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Black Tears” 2019

($51, Vino del Sol):  Jean Claude Berrouet, the former winemaker at Château Pétrus and other Moueix estates, consults at Tapiz, another Patricia Ortiz property.  Berrouet’s hallmark style — subtlety and finesse — is clearly apparent in this stunning Malbec.  It helps that they have selected special lots from a single vineyard located at over 4,440 feet above sea level. Read more

Jean-Baptiste Adam, Alsace (France) Riesling “Les Natures” 2021

($25, The Sorting Table):  Consumers tell me they avoid Riesling because they don’t know if it will be sweet or dry.  It is an understandable concern that mandates knowing the producer’s style or trusting a review.  For those of you unfamiliar with Adam’s style, trust me, their riveting 2021 Les Natures cuts like a scalpel without a trace of sweetness. Read more

Domaine La Florane, Côtes du Rhône-Villages Saint Maurice (Rhône Valley, France) “Echevin” 2021

($21):  The Rhône Valley provides a treasure trove of reasonably priced reds and whites, especially from the appellations with a lesser pedigree compared to the famed ones, such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage.  There is a trio of appellations, Côte du Rhône, Côtes du Rhone-Villages, and Côtes du Rhône-Villages with a named village appended, such as Saint Maurice, that offer particularly good value. Read more

Tongue Dancer, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Chardonnay 2021 

($55):  Tongue Dancer makes a range of Chardonnays (and Pinot Noirs) highlighting the uniqueness of the vineyards from which they source the grapes.  This one, in contrast, is a blend of several vineyards from throughout the Russian River Valley.  It is an opulent Chardonnay with all the richness you would expect from grapes grown in the Russian River Valley. Read more