Traditionally, Librandi’s region of Cirò was a red wine-heavy area, but as Paolo Librandi explains, in the last 30 years the proportion of whites has doubled and now equals that of reds for them. Their Critone typically contains a small (10%) amount of Sauvignon Blanc, a grape rarely seen in these parts because, as Paolo explains, to farm it correctly, “you must live in vineyard at harvest time.” He describes how the grape goes from thin and acidic to overripe in a matter of days, so the timing of harvest is critical. They clearly got it right because the 2024 Critone sings. The vibrant aromatics draw you in. Then, the brightness of Sauvignon Blanc balances the fleshy melon-like character that Chardonnay imparts. This bargain-priced wine is a great choice for summertime fare, so stock up.
92 Michael Apstein – June 11, 2025