The 2023 vintage in Burgundy has the reputation of producing forward or “approachable” wines that are ready to drink. Don’t be fooled. This stunning and age-worthy Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is not. Don’t get me wrong. It is a fabulous wine, as my score shows. It’s just youthful and structured, more like one from the 2022 vintage, but with even more power. The Domaine du Cellier aux Moines’s small parcel, dating from 1988, sits high on the upper part of the vineyard that already sits near the top of the slope, just under an ancient limestone quarry. Its location and a slight northerly exposure help explain its verve and energy. One whiff predicts a great wine. Then, the palate does not disappoint with its minerality, stoniness, and depth, balanced by brilliant acidity and a near endless finish. As expected from a great youthful wine, it develops as it sits in the glass. It is hard to resist now as an example of gorgeous young wine, but its combination of power and grace suggests that this is one for the cellar.
96 Michael Apstein – May 28, 2025