Pepe Raventós, the current head of the family-run sparkling wine company, Raventós i Blanc, purchased and resurrected an old farm, Serra de l’Home (literally, “mountain of man”) that dates from 1645 and is making still wine there under the Can Sumoi (literally, “house of Sumoll”) label. Pepe believes that Sumoll, a native red grape abandoned in place of high yielding varieties for Cava, is an ideal variety for coping with climate change because it likes heat and is resistant to drought. He explains that they are blending that grape with Garnatxa (also known as Garnacha) to combine what he calls the charming fruitiness of Garnatxa with the earthiness of Sumoll. And indeed, the 2023, a blend of Sumoll (60%) and Garnatax delivers crunchy red fruitiness offset by the savoriness and minerality of Sumoll. A delightful hint of bitterness in the finish maintains its balance. Polished tannins allow you to drink this mid-weight red this summer with meat from the grill.
92 Michael Apstein – May 28, 2025