The combination of soaring prices for even village wines and climate change have made the Hautes-Côtes the place to find affordable Burgundy. The Hautes-Côtes, both de Beaune and de Nuits, are the higher elevation land above the Côte d’Or. In the past, the elevation made it difficult to ripen the grapes and the wines had a rustic edge to them. Now, that’s all changing. Take this lovely white from Domaine Bonnadot. Spice complements its richness, which is in part due to the inclusion of a small amount (ten percent) of Pinot Gris in the blend. Bright acidity — thank you higher elevation — keeps it fresh and you coming back for another sip.
92 Michael Apstein – April 2, 2025