Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Tuscan Sangiovese-based DOCG, just like Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino, has never had the popularity of those other two areas. The 2021 vintage should change that.

Confusion surrounding the name might explain part of Vino Nobile’s underappreciated status. Is Montepulciano a town or a grape? Well, it turns out that it’s both the name of a gorgeous, must-visit historic hill town and of a down-market, workhorse grape rarely associated with great wine. And to make matters worse, consumers frequently—if not always—need to be reminded that Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the name notwithstanding, is made from the Sangiovese grape, not the Montepulciano grape. There’s a movement afoot to change its name to simply Vino Nobile, but the local residents’ sciovinismo (chauvinism) potentially stands in the way.

Confusion about the name is not the only reason of Vino Nobile’s under-the-radar status. Sangiovese’s tannins have often interfered with enjoyment and assessment of the wines when young.

Year after year, in February during the annual Anteprime di Toscana—an event enabling journalists and others to taste the newly released wines—I dutifully schlep up the narrow, winding roads to the medieval fortress in the hill town of Montepulciano to taste 40-plus examples of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. And year after year, I am disappointed by how angular and hard the wines turn out to be. Although it’s rare to want to embrace young wines from prestigious areas for current drinking, it was still difficult to see the promise that was hidden under drying and aggressive tannins in these youthful renditions of Vino Nobile. Sure, some top producers, like Boscarelli, Dei, and Poliziano, to name just three, always seemed to get it right. But they stood out because they were in the minority. Thankfully, the 2021 vintage has dramatically changed the face of Vino Nobile and has put this gem of a DOCG on its way to actualizing its potentially broader appeal.

Vino Nobile will never be an opulent wine. Nor should it be. Sangiovese typically makes structured, not sumptuous wines. Vino Nobile’s stature emanates from an elegant combination of cherry-like fruitiness and minerality cloaked in a firm, but not necessarily hard, robe of tannins. That said, many of the 2021s exhibited an engaging fleshiness atop their firmness. I rarely found drying or astringent tannins in the 2021s that I tasted. They are, by and large, solid and structured wines with enlivening acidity. Though there are plenty of consumers who adore the brightness and firmness of young Vino Nobile, I find that, even with the fleshiness of many of the 2021s, Vino Nobile wines benefit from at least five years of bottle aging. Even with proper bottle aging, Vino Nobile retains the structure in my experience. These reds are perfect for, and indeed, require red meat or hearty chicken dishes. They are wines for wintertime fare—think lamb shanks—or for grilled meats in the summer.

For those seeking more immediate enjoyment, look for Rosso di Montepulciano. Just as other red DOCGs that produce structured, age-worthy wines have a “rosso” (think Brunello’s Rosso di Montalcino), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano has a more user-friendly, more immediately accessible category, Rosso di Montepulciano. Typically made from younger grapes or those from less well-situated vineyards, Rosso di Montepulciano are aged for a shorter period and are ready to drink upon release. I recently tasted two mid-weight 2023s, one from Le Bèrne and one from Boscarelli, with salumi followed by grilled, highly seasoned pork chops. Mild tannins supporting bright and crunchy red berry fruit showed the “drink-now” virtue of the category and complemented the food perfectly.

The 2021 vintage also heralds the appearance on the label of a specific Pieve, the name of one of 12 subregions within Vino Nobile that have stricter production regulations. The delineation of Pieve in Vino Nobile comports with trends throughout Italy to identify unique and smaller areas within larger DOCG zones. It happened recently in Chianti Classico with the appearance of UGAs on the label of Gran Selezione and in Barolo with MGAs.

Michaela Morris, an authority on Italian wines, believes that the Pieve project has forced producers to focus on terroir and quality and explains, at least in part, the transformation of the Vino Nobile wines. While that is certainly true, the potential downside for consumers is yet another geographic area to remember. Although the goal of establishing Pieve is to distinguish wines from one part of the DOCG from another, the major message consumers should come away with is that Pieve should represent a higher quality of wine.

Maria Stella Poliziano, representing the third generation of that family estate, explains that the Pieve’s focus on terroir has meant less extraction during winemaking and less oak influence during aging to allow the vineyard’s voice to be heard. She adds that climate change resulting in warmer vintages has forced winemakers to experiment and try new techniques, which she thinks has resulted in smoother, less aggressive tannins earlier in the evolution of the wines.

Echoing Maria Stella about the winemaking, Alberto de Roma, a representative of Boscarelli, notes that with a hot vintage like 2021 they were very careful to, as he put it, “be gentle to the grapes” during fermentation. He believes that another explanation for the change in style comes from a generational change, “Look around this room. Look at how many young winemakers are here.” He explains, “They travel and learn how things are done elsewhere,” and meet every few weeks to “open bottles” and compare notes.

Whatever the reasons, and undoubtedly, it’s a combination of reasons, the results are clear. The 2021 Vino Nobile are stellar wines. Here are brief notes on a dozen of my favorites. Production typically is small, so many of these wines will be available in limited markets. If they’re not in yours, ask your local wine retailer for recommendations.

The prices of these beauties reflect their underappreciated status. Three-quarters of my recommended wines retail for $35 or less and the most expensive one is $43, based on the best information available to me.

Le Bèrne, a family-run estate, hit the bull’s eye with their aromatic and enticing 2021, combining a darker fruit profile with minerals and fine tannins. A plethora of flavors slowly emerge as it sits in the glass, making it a delight to savor now. (95 points; $32 for the 2020).

The bright and alluring 2021 Vino Nobile from Fattoria Svetoni is emblematic of the vintage with firm, not astringent, tannins and a dazzling combination of dark fruitiness, minerality, accented by a hint of bitterness in the finish. (95 points; $24 for the 2020).

Antinori’s plummy 2021 La Braccesca balances ripeness with a firm texture. Attractive spice adds an extra dimension to this mineral-infused wine. It also grows in the glass, so don’t rush it. (94 points; $30).

Poliziano turned out a full, yet stylish, 2021, with black cherry-like fruit, minerals and firm, fine tannins. This bright and spicy Vino Nobile marries charm and structure with an appealing hint of bitterness in the lengthy finish. (95 points; $29).

The 2021 Signore del Grippo is only Vannutelli’s second commercial vintage. And what a success! Edoardo Maria Vannutelli took over the family property in 2015 and is in the process of converting to organic viticulture. The 2021 Vino Nobile leads with lovely aromatics and follows with a blissful combination of subtle tarry minerals and spice combined with bright cherry-like fruitiness. Polished tannins wrap it all together. Sadly, it is not yet represented in the U.S., so…importers take notice! (93 points).

Unsurprisingly, Boscarelli produced a stellar 2021 Vino Nobile, an impeccably balanced and elegant wine displaying the ying/yang combination of elusive cherry-like fruitiness and minerality. Fine tannins add the requisite firmness yet contribute to its suave texture. It expands in the glass, so be sure to savor it to appreciate its magic. (94 points; $39).

Firmness and uplifting acidity balance the darker, black cherry succulent fruitiness of Fattoria del Cerro’s stunning “Silìneo” bottling. Fine tannins and a long and refined finish add to its appeal. Give it a couple of years to come together. (95 points; $21 for the 2020).

Charming aromatics and a fine texture help make Tiberini’s elegant 2021 Vino Nobile, “Podere Le Caggiole” a winner. Fragrant red cherry notes atop a firm, yet not hard, base provide harmony. A hint of spice in the uplifting finish amplifies its appeal. (94 points; $35 for the 2018).

Cantina Chiacchiera’s combines ripe, plummy fruitiness with a firm base to make an elegant rich 2021 Vino Nobile. A touch of peppery accents gives it an enticing ying/yang quality. Balanced and long, it’s a delight. (94 points; $43).

Put Crociani’s 2021 in the lush dark fruit category. A snappy structure keeps its fleshiness in balance. Very fine tannins and a paradoxical delicacy lend elegance to this stunning Vino Nobile. (93 points; $23 for the 2020).

A hint of peppery-like spice balances the succulent dark fruit character of 2021 Tenuta Trerose’s “Santa Caterina” bottling. Bright, Tuscan acidity in the finish completes the package nicely. (93 points; $43 for the 2020).

Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano, founded in 1937, making it Tuscany’s oldest cooperative winery, has about 400 members. Although many people disparage co-ops, I find the best ones, like Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano, draw enormous strength from having access to members’ old vines and their ability to make wines in a variety of quality and prices categories. Their Vino Nobile bottled under the “Redi” label is their top wine and deserves praise for its fleshy dark plum-like fruitiness offset by minerality, a hint of pepper-like spice, and a firm, but not hard, base. (93 points; $33 for the 2018).

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March 19, 2025