Marchesi di Barolo, Piemonte DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Grignolino 2021 ($38)

Grignolino is a love-it or hate-it kind of grape and wine. Put me firmly in the love-it category. A light red color and floral aromas could make think it’s a rosé, but the firm—not astringent—tannins and bracing acidity snap you out of that illusion. Marchesi di Barolo’s rendition is less tannic than many, but still has wonderful structure and spine that makes it a good match for hearty pasta, such as carbonara. Not an opulently fruity wine, its allure rests with its paradoxical austerity and mouth-filling pleasure.
92 Michael Apstein – Jan 22, 2025