Bolgheri is not the only locale in Italy for superb wine made from Bordeaux varieties. In the early 1980s, Marquis Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga experimented at his estate in Trentino with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and what he thought was Cabernet Franc, varieties that had been planted in the area since the 19th century. He discovered the mis-identification in the 1990s when he purchased more Cabernet Franc vines to expand the plantings, only to realize that what was planted and what he thought was Cabernet Franc was really Carmenère! The blend has remained the same, Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Carmenère (30%) and Merlot since the first vintage, the 1982. San Leonardo has been a consistently stellar wine since then, and the 2019 is no exception. Though a bit closed at this stage, the 2019 impresses with elegance and refinement rather than sheer power. With time in the glass, it starts to open to reveal a panoply of flavors—delicate fruity ones and spice. Almost mysteriously, it takes on weight and substance without being heavy. Impeccably balanced and fresh, it’s an Italian treasure that flies under the radar—hence the price—compared to the Bordeaux blends from Bolgheri. Lovely now after decanting and aeration, I suggest cellaring it for another decade to allow it to blossom fully.
96 Michael Apstein – Dec 18, 2024