If someone can find a better $25 Pinot Noir, please tell me. Until then, just buy this stunning one by the case. Although the wine is labeled Kumeu Village, the grapes come from Hawke’s Bay where they purchased vineyards in 2017, not being able to expand around Kumeu because of its proximity to Auckland. The limestone soil in Hawke’s Bay is different from the clay found in Kumeu, which makes it an excellent site for Pinot Noir. The striking 2022 Kumeu Village Pinot Noir leads with an engaging raspberry-like fruitiness. As it sits in the glass an intriguing subtle savory component appears. Paradoxically, it’s both fruity and simultaneously delicate. Wonderful acidity keeps it fresh and lively. Uncork it or, excuse me, unscrew it (Kumeu has been using screw caps for about 20 years), and pair it with grilled tuna or salmon.
92 Michael Apstein