Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay. Their wines first arrived on these shores in 1987, caught everyone’s attention with their Burgundian-like character and striking quality, and the rest, as they say, is history. The Estate Chardonnay, which they’ve been making since the 1980s, comes from six vineyards in the Kumeu area, five of which are theirs. The stylish 2022 has a gentle richness and enlivening citrus finish. Those looking for voluptuous Chardonnay will be disappointed. Those who embrace a racy, elegant style of Chardonnay that displays plenty of flavor will love this wine. 93 Michael Apstein
($22, Wilson-Daniels): Granted, I’ve not tasted every New Zealand Chardonnay, but I’ve yet to find a consistently better Chardonnay producer than Kumeu River. Kumeu River bottles an array of Chardonnay ranging from this “entry level” to several single vineyards, each of which reflects their unique site. This Village wine comes…
($48, Wilson Daniels): Kumeu River’s Maté Vineyard Chardonnay, named for the patriarch of the family, is always their boldest and most complexity offering. The 2012 fits that description. Although richer and bigger than the winery’s other Chardonnays, it remains perfectly balanced without sacrificing any freshness or verve. Indeed, it’s a…
($48, Wilson Daniels): Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay, the flagship Chardonnay of the estate, is named for Maté Brajkovich, who founded the winery along with his parents in 1944. In 1990, Maté replanted the original vineyard he and his parents purchased with Chardonnay. After his death in 1992, the Brajkovich family, who…
Kumeu River, owned by the charming and humble Brajkovich family, is arguably New Zealand’s top Chardonnay producer. Founded in 1944, they started making fortified wines and gradually transitioned to high quality still wine with, of all things, Müller-Thurgau, and eventually landed on Chardonnay. Their wines first arrived on these shores in 1987, caught everyone’s attention with their Burgundian-like character and striking quality, and the rest, as they say, is history. The Estate Chardonnay, which they’ve been making since the 1980s, comes from six vineyards in the Kumeu area, five of which are theirs. The stylish 2022 has a gentle richness and enlivening citrus finish. Those looking for voluptuous Chardonnay will be disappointed. Those who embrace a racy, elegant style of Chardonnay that displays plenty of flavor will love this wine.