($29, Dreyfus, Ashby & Co):  Saint Véran, an appellation in Mâconnais, the southern part of Burgundy, abuts and surrounds Pouilly-Fuissé.  Like its more famous — and expensive — neighbor, it makes only white wines and only from Chardonnay.  Drouhin, one of Burgundy’s top négociants, has been making a consistently excellent Saint Véran year in and year out for decades.  Their stylish 2022, from an excellent vintage, is no exception.  Bright and fresh acidity balances its subtle creamy richness.  Not an opulent, in-your-face Chardonnay, this is an elegant white Burgundy.  It will elevate a simple roast chicken.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 1, 2024