($45, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant):  For over a decade now, Muscadet has a cru system, analogous to the Beaujolais crus.  That is, identification of towns that have the potential to produce more distinctive and noteworthy wines.  Wines from the Muscadet cru must have lower yields and be aged on the lees longer.  Clisson, along with Gordes and Le Pallet, were the first three villages to receive cru status.  Domaine Brégeon’s energetic 2019 Clisson is simply stunning.  A rich creaminess accompanies the classic edgy minerality for which Muscadet Sèvre et Maine is known.  I know, 45 bucks for a Muscadet is unusual, but this eye-opening Muscadet with its Burgundian-like feel adds a whole new dimension to the appellation.
93 Michael Apstein Oct 1, 2024