Rocche Costamagna, Barolo Riserva (Piedmont, Italy) Rocche Dell’Annunziata “Bricco Francesco” 2016

($96):  Costamagna’s majestic Riserva, Bricco Francesco, comes from the higher part of Rocche Dell’Annunziata, which most producers believe has better soil and exposure.  At eight years of age, its bricky color suggests maturity, but don’t be fooled.  At this stage, engaging floral notes are apparent, followed by mineraly and red fruit nuances.  Yet, this Riserva shows youthful and firm, not hard, tannins that suggest it has miles to go before it’s ready.  It does reflect the grand nature of the vintage, but still needs another five to ten years to show its real stature.
93 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024