($130, Vintus):  Curiously, the Ayala Champagne house, founded by a Columbian, Edmond de Ayala, is located in the town of Aÿ.  Paradoxically, Aÿ, a town in the Vallée de la Marne, is known for great Pinot Noir, while Ayala’s focus is on Chardonnay.  Curiosities and paradoxes notwithstanding, Ayala’s flagship bottling, A/18 Blanc de Blanc, is stunning!  Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in four Grand Cru villages, which, by definition, are rated 100% (Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger) and two Premier Cru villages that are rated 95% (Bisseuil and Cuis), Ayala’s A/18 delivers both power and elegance.  There is a beguiling hint of brioche and real depth.  It explodes and expands on the palate, then finishes with a steely spine that amplifies it charms.  If your budget includes super-premium or tête du cuvée Champagne, this is one to get.
96 Michael Apstein Sep 10, 2024