($30, Cru Selections):  Regulations for the Reserva category of Rioja require at least 3 years of aging, one of which must be in barrel, before release.  Many, like this beauty, are aged longer before they hit retailers’ shelves.  Hint of brown mahogany in the color announces it maturity and the non-fruit panoply of flavors (coffee and even leather-like notes) on the palate confirms it.  Enough fine and suave tannins remain to lend support.  More savory than fruity, this Reserva shows the near magical transformation that occurs with proper aging.  A bonus is the bargain price for a fully mature wine that will be marvelous with a hearty stew this winter.
92 Michael Apstein Sep 3, 2024