($60, Misa Imports): Mont Bessay’s Quatre Cerisiers bottling comes from a small, 1.75-acre, plot some distance from the winery where the soil contains blue stone.  Pascal and Marko marvel at how different Gamay behaves here compared to the parcels around the winery.  Unsurprisingly, the wine is wonderfully different.  A mineral scent immediately appears from the glass.  The wine is firm, but not hard, and its stone-y presence on the palate is initially reminiscent of Morgon’s Côte de Py.  Then the engaging spicey character of Juliénas comes forth.  Black fruit distinguishes it from the red fruited nature of their En Bessay bottling.  Although more structured than their En Bessay bottling, the tannins are smooth, imparting a suave texture.  Its elegance, which is clearly a hallmark of their wines, is unmistakable.  Juicy fruitiness intermingled with a gorgeous minerality emerges with air, so don’t rush it.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 27, 2024