($23, Zamora Company): Albariño and Rías Baixas are practically synonymous. Yes, there is a little other white wine produced aside from Albariño, and of course, in neighboring Portugal, the same grape (Alvarinho in Portuguese) is used for Vinho Verde. But Albariño from Rías Baixas is hard to resist, especially in the summer because its uplifting citrus acidity refreshes and simultaneously cuts through most anything on the table, even barbecued chicken. Mar de Frades’ lively mid-weight white adds a subtle peppery-like spice that makes it even more engaging.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2024