DiamAndes, Valle de Uco (Mendoza, Argentina) Chardonnay “Perlita” 2022

($15):  Oh no, another South American Chardonnay.  Well, it turns out that DiamAndes’ is not just another South American Chardonnay.  The backstory is as fascinating as the wine is stunning.  DiamAndes is a project of the A & M Bonnie family, owners of Château Malartic Lagravière, one of the leading estates in Pessac-Léognan.  There, just south of Bordeaux, they make exemplary reds and whites.  Naturally, you would expect their Argentinean white to be good.  The only problem is that in Pessac-Léognan the Bonnie family makes white wine from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.  Regulations prohibit the use of Chardonnay in Pessac-Léognan.  So, I have no explanation why this bargain-priced Chardonnay stands out the way it does.  It is fruity, but not too, showing the restraint for which Malartic Lagravière is known.  It is rich without being heavy, with striking supporting acidity.  This finesse-filled Chardonnay reveals itself with time in the glass, so don’t gulp it even though the price suggests it is a gulp-able wine.
94 Michael Apstein Aug 20, 2024