Wines from Alsace are labeled by grape, not place, which makes them unique among top quality AOC (appellation origine controllée) French wines. The French label all other top-quality AOC wines by place name—where the grapes grown—Chablis, Bordeaux, Sancerre, Pouilly-Fuissé—to name just four of the hundreds of names. Alsace, by contrast, uses varietal labeling, grape names—Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir—nomenclature that we Americans are familiar with and understand.
This labeling, along with the high quality of the wines, should make Alsace wines extremely popular in the U.S. Retailers, however, tell me that these wines, inexplicably, do not fly off the shelves. Consumers wonder whether the wines will be sweet or dry, which is a reasonable question since many Alsace wines come in both styles. The traditional, tall, sloped green bottle doesn’t help because some consumers mistake them for German wines, which have a reputation for sweetness. The bottle shape, unsurprisingly, is a matter of economics. Historically, German and Alsace wines were shipped via boat on the Rhine, which meant the bottle did not need to be as sturdy as those shipped over land. As a result, these bottles didn’t need a punt (the depression in the base) that strengthens them, allowing them to be packed more tightly.
I attended a tasting of Alsace wines in New York this past spring that included a stunning array of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir wines, two varieties that are often overlooked. Accounting for only about 12 percent of the region’s plantings, it’s easy to see why Pinot Noir is overlooked. Much of what is planted goes into sparkling Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, which must be made exclusively from that variety. So, it’s not surprising there’s not a lot of it on retailers’ shelves. While I found, predictably, many stunning examples of racy Riesling, Alsace’s most important grape, it was Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir that surprised me the most. And, I might add, at very good prices. These two varieties reinforce my advice to consumers: It is time to overcome any apprehension about Alsace wines and step up for Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir.
Although the wines are labeled by variety, growers in Alsace, like growers all over France, know that some sites have the potential to produce better wines than others. In the 1970s, French wine regulators finally got around to identifying 51 top sites in Alsace based on terroir and awarded them Grand Cru status. These sites have the potential to produce even more noteworthy wines but represent only about three percent of Alsace production. But let me assure you, there are plenty of non-Grand Cru wines from Alsace worthy of your attention. Moreover, consumers will not see Grand Cru on any bottle of Pinot Blanc and on only a rare Pinot Noir grown in just three vineyards, Kirchberg de Barr, Hengst, and most recently, Vorbourg (and even then starting only with the 2022 vintage). Only Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat can carry the Grand Cru moniker. Other varieties are thought not to be “noble” enough. The initial exclusion of Pinot Noir was, as so many things are, all about politics, not about quality. Antoine Schutz from Domaine Ruhlmann-Schutz explains that to get the Burgundians to accept a Grand Cru classification system in Alsace, they had to agree not to allow any Pinot Noir to carry that designation!
The soils in Alsace are varied due to the pre-historic collapse of a land mass that extended from the Vosges mountains through Germany’s Black Forest. The resulting vineyards and the jumble of soils that include limestone and granite lie on the slopes of the Vosges mountains and cascade down to the Rhine River Valley and explain why a variety of styles of wine exist.
Pinot Noir grown on granite “helps with acidity,” according to Marine Claude, from Domaine Kirrenbourg, whose fragrant and exciting 2021 Cuvée Mathieu is striking evidence that Alsace can produce stellar Pinot Noir. She explains that the acidity imparted by the granite soil helps offset the loss due to climate change. She continues, “Heat (from climate change) gives us the maturity we lacked. Thanks to global warming we can make better wine.” She emphasizes that, “We want to produce according to our terroir. The point is not to look like Burgundy.” Her explanation squares with my experience. Decades ago, Pinot Noir from Alsace was—more often than not—light and conspicuously lacking in density. Now, growers get good ripeness and complexity while preserving Pinot Noir’s delicate aromas and finesse.
Like Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc has seen a transformation recently from light and innocuous wines to ones with good density and vivacity. It’s not clear to me whether the change is a result of a warming climate or modifications growers are making. In any case, Pinot Blanc has gone from a wine to ignore to a wine to embrace.
Pinot Blanc, a less aromatic variety compared to Riesling or Gewürztraminer, typically still has a delicate and alluring floral aspect. While light and fresh, the best have subtle nuances of stone fruit buttressed by lively acidity. Wines labeled Pinot Blanc can contain a related grape, Auxerrois, which growers like because it ripens early, which means it avoids being ruined by fall rains. In the blend, it adds substance while moderating Pinot Blanc’s acidity.
On to recommendations.
There’s a bounty of good Pinot Blanc wines from the marvelous 2022 vintage. Domaine Barmès-Buecher’s vibrant (certified biodynamic) 2022 Pinot Blanc “Rosenberg” exemplifies the balance of subtle pear-like flavors with enlivening, but not screeching, acidity. It could easily serve double duty as a stand-alone aperitif or to accompany grilled fish (91 points, $36).
Domaine Josmeyer’s cheery 2022 Pinot Blanc “Mise du Printemps,” also a certified biodynamic wine, may be lighter in weight but not in enjoyment and will certainly cut through summer’s heat and humidity. (92 pts., $27). Josmeyer, always one of my favorite producers, also bottled a stunning 2020 Auxerrois “H” Vieilles Vignes whose weight and stone-y complexity reflects its bottle age and inclusion of grapes from old vines (93 pts., $50).
Léon Beyer’s floral and fresh 2022 Pinot Blanc, planted on a clay limestone soil, delivers a touch of attractive bitterness in its lengthy finish. It’s a serious wine that makes you reconsider any preconceived notions of innocuous Pinot Blanc (93 pts., $26).
Meyer Fonné opts to include Auxerrois and a touch of Pinot Gris is their pretty and packed 2022 Pinot Blanc. Weighing in at less than 13 percent stated alcohol, it delivers amazing depth without heaviness, all supported and amplified by cutting acidity. It punches far above its price (93 pts., $25).
Speaking of punching above price, Domaine Specht’s elegant 2022 Pinot Blanc dances on the palate, delivering a bright mouthful of minerals and subtle stone fruits at a modest 12 percent stated alcohol. Fine as an aperitif, it has sufficient weight to hold up to all but the most flavorful seafood (92 pts., $19).
Turning to Pinot Noir:
Although the Pinot Noir grapes came from Grand Cru vineyards, the stunning 2021 Domaine Kirrenbourg “Cuvée Mathieu,” won’t carry that accolade on the label until the 2022 vintage because of the aforementioned regulations. Grand Cru may not be on the label, but it’s certainly in the bottle of this fragrant and layered beauty. This biodynamic beauty combines power and finesse (95 pts., $68).
Trimbach, one the region’s best and most well-known producers, unsurprisingly, excels with their stylish 2021 Pinot Noir Réserve. They achieve a seamless and harmonious mix of bright red fruit accented by savory notes, all enrobed in fine tannins. This light and elegant Pinot Noir would be a good choice for grilled salmon this summer (92 pts., $32).
From vines that are between 35 and 50 years old and planted on granite soil, Domaine Hurst fashion a lush 2022 Pinot Noir “Vieilles Vignes.” Subtle savory elements offset the ripe red and black fruit flavors in this biodynamically made wine. A suave texture means you can enjoy this mid-weight this summer (92 pts., $34).
Domaine Barmès-Buecher’s lively 2022 Pinot Noir Réserve is the real deal. Fragrant with an impeccable combination of bright red fruit and spicy savory nuances, the biodynamically-made wine sings. Aging on the lees for about a year in old (10-15 year) oak barrels enhances its appeal without introducing any interfering woody notes (94 pts., $42).
The finesse-filled 2020 Pinot Noir Réserve from Meyer Fonné shows how a couple of years of bottle age enriches Alsace Pinot Noir. A delicate, but not vapid, impression of red cherries melds with earthy elements in this well-balanced beauty. A suave texture permits enjoyment without further aging (92 pts., $34).
If you run across the enticingly fragrant 2021 Pinot Noir “Les Jardins” from Domaine Ostertag, grab it. An array of bright red fruit mingles with savory spices. Succulent but not heavy, it captures the oft too elusive “flavor without weight” of great Pinot Noir. Its silky texture allows you to serve it with grilled salmon this summer or a hearty roast chicken and mushroom sauce this fall (95 pts., $42).
Made from organic grapes and weighing in at a modest 12 percent stated alcohol, the lithe Domaines Schlumberger 2021 Pinot Noir “Les Princes Abbés” dances on the palate. Like the head of Janus, it displays both the aromatic red fruitiness and leafy nuances, the hallmark of fine Pinot Noir (92 pts., $28).
After 30 years, the still fresh 1993 Pinot Noir “F” from Domaine Paul Blanck shows how well Alsace Pinot Noir can develop. Subtle, but alluring, savory notes predominate in this gracefully framed wine. A touch of fine tannins provides just the right amount of structure to this long and herb-laden wine without intruding (94 pts., price n/a).
E-mail me your thoughts about Alsace wines in general or Alsace Pinot Blanc and Alsace Pinot Noir in specific at [email protected] and follow me on Twitter and Instagram @MichaelApstein
August 14, 2024