($23, Vino del Sol): Patricia Ortiz, who owns Zolo, emphasizes the importance of estate grown fruit, which gives them complete control over planting, farming, and harvesting the grapes. In wry, understated manner, she adds, “When you must purchase grapes, it’s different.” The estate fruit coupled with the consulting advice from Jean Claude Berrouet, the longtime, now retired, winemaker at Pétrus, explains the wine’s power and poise. Polished, unobtrusive tannins do not detract from its suave texture. An ever so subtle hint of chocolate-like nuances accent the ripe, but not overdone, dark fruit character. It would be an excellent choice for skirt steak hot off the grill.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2024