($100, Vino del Sol):  Sometimes just smelling a wine lets you know how great it will be.  This is such a wine. Jean Claude Berrouet, who made over 40 vintages at Château Pétrus before retiring in 2007, consults at Tapiz, so it is not surprising that they would produce a Bordeaux blend alongside their marvelous Malbec.  Patricia Ortiz, the owner of Tapiz, recounts how it took several years of Berrouet’s studying the vineyard before he was satisfied with making the wine.  Though Berrouet was the master of Merlot at Pétrus, this enticing Retrato Por (literally, “portrait by”) is a Cabernet Sauvignon heavy (62%) blend, with Cabernet Franc (28%), Merlot (8%), and Petit Verdot filling out the blend.  Yes, it delivers plenty of dark fruit that provides power, but far more importantly, it has Berrouet’s sense of poise and stature.  Suave and complex, it reveals a panoply of flavors as it sits in the glass.  Its lengthy finish reinforces the wine’s grandeur.  This is a wine to savor, not rush.  Its texture makes this balanced beauty delightful to drink now, while its balance suggests a long and glorious life.
96 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2024