($51, Vino del Sol): Jean Claude Berrouet, the former winemaker at Château Pétrus and other Moueix estates, consults at Tapiz, another Patricia Ortiz property. Berrouet’s hallmark style — subtlety and finesse — is clearly apparent in this stunning Malbec. It helps that they have selected special lots from a single vineyard located at over 4,440 feet above sea level. The altitude provides plenty of sunlight to ripen the grapes, while simultaneously keeping them cool, allowing them to retain acidity that imparts freshness to the wine. Though this Malbec has power you would expect from the grape, it also delivers an uncanny elegance and finesse. A beguiling floral element appears as it sits in the glass, so don’t rush it. It also exhibits stunning complexity — a “not just fruit” component in the finish that makes you want to take another sip. It is a characteristic rarely seen in monovarietal Malbec. A lush texture means its tannic structure supports but does not intrude, making it a delight to drink now. Dare I say, even at 14.5 percent stated alcohol, it’s a “pretty” Malbec.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2024