($42, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant): Pinot Noir is Alsace’s overlooked variety. It accounts for only about 12 percent of the region’s planting and much of it goes into Crémant d’Alsace Rosé, which must be made exclusively from that variety. So, it is not surprising there’s not a lot of it on retailers’ shelves. If you find this fragrant beauty from Domaine Ostertag, grab it. It displays an explosive array of bright red fruit mingled with savory spices. Succulent, without being heavy, it captures the oft too elusive “flavor without weight” of great Pinot Noir. It would be a perfect accompaniment to grilled salmon this summer.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 6, 2024