($25, Vino del Sol): Wapisa, located only about 25 miles from the Atlantic Ocean and Patagonia’s only coastal winery, is the indigenous Patagonian name for whale. Owned by Patricia Ortiz, one of Argentina’s leading winemakers, it makes a splendid array of wines. The vineyard’s proximity to the cooling Atlantic — Pinot Noir does not do well in the heat — and Ortiz’s talents explain why this bargain-priced Pinot Noir is so stunning. Pinot Noir at this price typically focuses on a monotonic ripe, sweet fruitiness. Not Wapisa’s. With their 2022, delicate savory nuances complement the moderate red fruit notes, creating a satisfying ying/yang aspect that Pinot Noir can deliver — though it all too often fails to do so. A velvety texture makes it a joy to drink now. Please, if someone runs across a better Pinot Noir at this price, let me know.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 30, 2024